[PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40 and Brake Fluid

Thu Mar 30 22:39:46 EDT 2017

Not all brake fluid is corrosive.  Over time, some types become  corrosive 
due to the contaminants they pick up from wear in the system and  from the 
moisture they absorb.  DOT 5 is silicone based and doesn't absorb  moisture, 
although I've never thought of it as being used to  compensate motors.
Jim

In a message dated 3/30/2017 7:49:46 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
personal_submersibles at psubs.org writes:

I've never tried it- just saw it at the  parts store. I assume that it does 
not corrode rubber brake boots. Would have  to be tested.

____________________________________
 From: Brian Cox via  Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General  Discussion 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 11:03  PM
Subject: Re:  [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40

James,    My experience is that brake fluid is extremely  corrosive, it'll 
take paint off if you spill it on your car.  Not sure  about silicone brake 
fluid.

Brian

---  personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:

From:  james cottrell via Personal_Submersibles  
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal  Submersibles General Discussion 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Date: Thu, 30  Mar 2017 02:21:58 +0000 (UTC)

For those looking for less expensive  silicone oil try pricing out silicone 
brake fluid. It might be a little  cheaper.

____________________________________
 From: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles  
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General  Discussion 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 9:28  PM
Subject: Re:  [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40

 I hear what some are saying about the air compensation but when I started 
the  design with these motor pods it was with oil compensation in mind so 
I'm going  in that direction.  
I'm finally back working on sub stuff after a detour of redoing the front  
end of my Chevy ( ball Joints, spindles, upgrade to disk brakes etc..)   
Anyway, I just did a pressure test on my motor
pod and I was satisfied that it should not leak oil.  I need to get  some 
synatic foam however ( Scott !! ),  if I do use the  silicone oil I want to 
use as little as possible since it's so  expensive.  My motor pods 
hold the motor and gear box just fine except there is a lot of extra  
volume in there, I'm thinking to fill up the voids with the foam.   Granted it 
would be better to have a large volume of oil for cooling 
but I'm on a budget !   One thing interesting about the  silicone oil is 
that it evaporates.  Not sure how fast on top of  water but it may have 
different characteristics , like beading up rather  than making a 
oil slick.  I'd like to play with some of it.

Brian

---  personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:

From: hank  pronk via Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion  
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re:  [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2017 00:30:56 +0000  (UTC)

You will be our go to guy for lighting!

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 6:15 PM,  Alan via Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>  wrote:

Still building lights Hank,
have built a couple of housings but are doing a third revision  &
hopefully this one will be perfect. I am pretty happy with how it's  going.
Am getting a different LED driver made up with PWM dimming.
Got off the motor project temporarily as my brother wanted one of
the lights for his boat. \uD83D\uDE10
Alan

Sent from my iPad

On 30/03/2017, at 12:35 PM, hank pronk via  Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>  wrote:

Alan,
Are you back to work on your motor?   or are you still  building lights?
Hank

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:44 PM,  hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>  wrote:

Thanks' Greg

Alan, my answer is who cares if some water gets between the  seals.  The 
important part is to keep the oil inside the motor.  When the motor starts up 
at the surface, there is significant  centrical force that pushes the oil 
out with the seal in its original  orientation.  I should actually remove one 
of the seals and just have  one seal holding oil in, just like a submersible 
well pump has.  Those  pumps are VERY reliable.  Now having said all this, 
I could be wrong  ;-)   Stay tuned for test results.
Hank

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:31 PM,  Alan via Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>  wrote:

How are you doing that Hank?
Are you compensating the gap between the two seals?
Otherwise you are in the same situation as the Minn kota motors
where one of the two seals will fail when you go beyond it's  depth
rating.
Cheers Alan

Sent from my iPad

On 30/03/2017, at 10:40 AM, hank pronk via  Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>  wrote:

Greg,
Good points, but I personally am not ready to give up on oil  filling.  I 
have reversed one of the two seals in my new motors for  Elementary.  One 
seal keeps the oil in and one seal keeps the water  out.  I am confident this 
in addition to the compensation system will  make for a clean leak proof set 
up.  The ice is off the lake by my  house, so my test lake should be open in 
a week or so.  I will know  then if my idea works.
Hank

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 7:03 AM,  james cottrell via 
Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>  wrote:

I have to say, I no longer think that WD40 is the best for  compensating 
things underwater. Over time it causes plastics and rubber to  harden and 
become brittle.
Silicone oil is better but the other problem with oil  compensation in 
general is that the smallest drop/leak makes a very  visible oil slick around 
your sub (not good). Most guys are using trolling  motors and they're not 
really tight enough to hold thin oil without  leaks.
Back in the 90s I was using air compensation- and it actually  worked 
really well. As far as I know, Karl Stanley has also been using air  compensation 
for a long time without problems.

It's a clean system that's not hard to set up and a small  bottle of air 
lasts for many dives.

Greg C

____________________________________
 From: "MerlinSub at t-online.de via  Personal_Submersibles" 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal  Submersibles General Discussion 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>  
Sent:  Tuesday, March 28, 2017 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD -  40

On  a brushless motor it will maybe work with mineral oil. 

On  motors with brushes I have bad expierence with that. 
Mineral  oil is a big problem in a lake if a motor is even a little 
untight.  

-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Datum: 2017-03-28T17:15:59+0200

Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
An: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>

Hi Carsten, 
                         I did a small test trying to light the WD40 on 
fire.  It's not as  flammable as I thought it would be.  I think they have 
improved it's  non-flammability with new formulation. It's still somewhat 
flammable  however. 
I will be using a light mineral oil in my motors.

Brian

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.org  wrote:

From: "MerlinSub at t-online.de via  Personal_Submersibles" 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Date: Tue, 28  Mar 2017 07:22:02 +0200 (MEST)

Heat  Vapor is may a problem with WD40. 

May  ensure that the compensating back is big to handle that.. 

We  change to silicon oil for that reason. 

vbr  Carsten 

-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Datum: 2017-03-28T04:56:46+0200
Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
An: "PSubs" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>

I just ran one of my motors filled with the WD40.  It seemed to be  very 
happy.  I mainly just did it to clean the carbon build up out of the  motor.  
I was surprised how sealed the motor was, it is open at one  end where it 
mates to the gear box.  I was able to fill it up  without it leaking out 
anywhere.  That could be an issue later when I  want the mineral oil to fill all 
the voids.  I might need to  actually drill some holes to get some 
circulation . 

Brian 

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