[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED recommendations

Mon Aug 28 19:24:52 EDT 2017

Alan, this is the Bridglux Vero 29  that we were working on.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXRC-50C10K0-L-24/976-1277-ND/5180249
Spec says (last line)
[image: Inline image 1]
38V at 2100 mA. Looks like the driver Emile posted would handle this for
both a 24V and 36Vnominal system.  It could also replace the custom PCB I
am using in 5K lights I have installed on my boat.  The questing to ask
your rep. is if hit this array with 40VDC, would it tolerate it at 2100
mA?  Based on your comment and experience, it sounds like it would.  Can
you send me the manufacuter of the heat transferring epoxy?  I am
woundering if I could pot these tiny drivers in a 1 atm enclosure to
improve heat transfer.

Best Regards

Cliff

PS: We missed you at Islamorada.

On Mon, Aug 28, 2017 at 5:26 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Jon, Cliff.
> From what I can gather, car headlights put out about 3,500 lumens off
> 35W. But we are looking all around & not just straight ahead. If you have
> good
> visibility then why not take the daylight down with you.
>    I am using 2 x 70W ( 7000 lumen ) LEDs out front like headlights &
> one out either side, as I have a set up similar to Cliff with 360 view.
> I am putting one out the back that will double for my rear navigation
> light & for backing out of caves. Also I am having a spot light that will
> be above the water when surfaced, but give penetration if needed when
> underwater. A cave diver had recommended the spot as well as a flood
> to illuminate cave walls etc in the distance.
> All lights have dimming so I can use my generic flood light as my
> navigation
> light & because back scatter in low visibility water with a lot of muck in
> it will blind you.
>   Cliff, the high powered LEDs are very voltage tolerant on the high side.
> They are not tolerant of over current
> I was told this, & also inadvertently ran a 36V LED off 80V, which
> survived.
> The LEDs spec sheet may or may not confirm this but if you email the
> manufacturers tech support they may be able to help you. I have a
> contact in the Chinese firm that manufactures the bridgelux. If you want
> to give me the specs I can send him an email.
>    With regard to the driver overheating; my old driver had large mosfetts
> that were bent over on to the board, & the board sat on a large heat sink.
> my new driver doesn't have any large mosfetts, nor heat sink. There is a
> coil
> that is  inside a small enclosure to shield it, & this gets hot when
> driven at about
> 65 - 80W. I have ordered some aluminium enclosures with slots for mounting
> the PCB & will heat sink this component to the housing some how. Have been
> looking at heat transferring epoxy, but don't want a piece of aluminium
> coming unstuck & shorting my electronics.
> Cheers Alan
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On 29/08/2017, at 3:29 AM, emile via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Emile, a couple of questions:
>
>    - Are you using the /Bridgelux Vero 29 BXRC-50G10K0-L-24 array, if not
>    what Vero 29 part number?
>
> >> Got them from Antoine. You know the P/n Antoine?
>
>    - On the Sensor Extreme LED driver, are you using the 2050mA factory
>    output current? If not, which factory current? This would match pretty
>    well the 2.1A current draw on the Vero 28 at maximum power.
>
> >max power is even 3 Amps. Funny; if you reduce the voltage with the power
> supply , the Amps rise.
>
>    - The driver doc says “Maybe you need to cool the driver, attach him
>    if necessarily with an electrically insulating material such as thermal pad
>    on a metal surface/heat sink”.  I don’t see any kind of metal surface on
>    the driver to effectively mechanical/thermally connect this to a heat
>    sink.  In your enclosure, do you use a heat sink on the driver?
>
> >> I attached them in a small alu box with thermal conductive double side
> tape. Works fine.
>
>    - Is your LED enclosure 1-atm air filled or pressure compensated with
>    oil?
>
> >> 1 ATM
>
>    - Are you connecting these directly to a 36V nominal AGM battery bank
>    (30-40V)?  If so, the driver documentation says “It is important to
>    ensure that the input voltage <= total-Led voltage. (Boost Principle).  If
>    not the LED(s) get to much voltage and can damage!  If you had a new fully
>    charged 36v bank, the actual voltage would be around 40V.  If the Vero 29
>    wants 38v, is this an issue?
>
> >> Up to you to test .. I run on  a 24 VDC system.
>
>    - You said that you do not run the light at full power?  Why?
>
> >> No time for a a dimmer and test program.
>
>    - Can you share a picture of the enclosure?
>
> see attachment. Evt  for sale.
>
>    - Can you run these lights out of water?
>
> Ø  To be tested. At this stage  (2 Amps for 2 LEDS) It cam be use out of
> the water.LED array is mounted with thermal conductive paste.
>
>    - What kind of electrical disconnect to you have on the light
>    enclosure.
>
> >> Blueglobe
>
>    - This looks like a great LED driver. I am considering it for the 10K
>    PSUB light project which is on hold pending finding a LED driver.
>
> >> sure! I run 2 LEDs parallel on one driver .
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oc6-9CzQNM&t=390s
>
> ·        Emile one more question.  The Sensor Extreme documentation says
> dimming is controllable with their Led Stripe V4, Nanodim V2 or micro-dim
> units.  Which of these units if any are you using to dim the LED?  If not
> one of these units, are you using a PLC to generate the PWM dimming signal?
>
> Ø  I am a mechanical guy.. Now has fixed amps. Will make 3 stages later
> on.
>
>
>
> Best regards
>
>
>
> Cliff
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 28, 2017 at 3:07 AM, emile via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Hi Jon,
>
> The Pilotfish team and me  developed a UW LED lamp. Since the Norway
> expedition on my sub. So happy with it that I like to recommend it.
> It is a Bridgelux Vero 29 unit with 80 Watt (abt. 300 watt Halogen) Wide
> (90-100 deg) angle but that is okay for a sub. Housing is can go down to
> 800 M and has a 80 mm OD.
> Dimmable, I don’t run it at full power.
> LED driver 6-40 VDC : https://pcb-components.de/led-
> aufwaertswandler-boost-step-up/led-senser-xtreme-200-
> 2050ma-6v-30v-detail.html
>
>
> Br, Emile
>
> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
> Van: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org]
> Namens Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles
> Verzonden: maandag 28 augustus 2017 4:29
> Aan: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> Onderwerp: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED recommendations
>
>
> While we're in the middle of an LED investigation, can those of you
> actively diving with LED lighting give us a guideline on a range of lumens
> we should be striving for (per lamp), how many lamps, spot or flood?
>
> I know Alec was using an oil-filled 3000 lumen lamp on SNOOPY before
> selling it.  I've been looking at PRIMELUX 8100 lumen lamp that seems like
> it could be easily adapted for oil or air compensation.  Generally I would
> say more light is better but also need to be careful about power
> consumption so I don't want to purchase more light than is necessary for
> general operations.
>
> Jon
>
>
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