[PSUBS-MAILIST] Light project spec sheet

Wed Apr 19 13:36:53 EDT 2017

attached

On Wed, Apr 19, 2017 at 9:25 AM, River Dolfi via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Cliff, can you send me a copy of the spec sheet for the light project?
>
> -River Dolfi
> rdolfi7 at gmail.com
>
> On Apr 19, 2017 3:33 AM, "via Personal_Submersibles" <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
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>    1. Re: Light Experiments (Alan via Personal_Submersibles)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 19:32:04 +1200
> From: Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
>         <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Light Experiments
> Message-ID: <AA2117F5-E3FD-49D1-A7DF-D9F163139462 at yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Thanks Emile,
> that will give me a bench mark pressure for my testing.
> Hope all is going well.
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On 19/04/2017, at 7:04 PM, emile via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> > Alan,
> >
> > Guess it is tempered. I tested my lamp with a 90x10 mm disk to 80 Bar
> without breaking.
> >  60x10 could be tested to 100-120 Bar!
> > The reflectors are also from Dev Pein.de
> >
> > Emile
> >
> > Van: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-
> bounces at psubs.org] Namens Alan via Personal_Submersibles
> > Verzonden: maandag 17 april 2017 23:26
> > Aan: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> > Onderwerp: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Light Experiments
> >
> > Emile,
> > that is a good site especially when you copy & paste into Google
> translator.
> > Do you know the strength rating of the borosilicate? Is it tempered ?
> > I need 60mm diameter & I think the thickness I require is 10mm for
> tempered
> > borosilicate. They have a stock item 60 x 10.
> > Although my required diameter is 60mm the unsupported diameter is 37mm.
> > Sub build is for 500 ft so want the glass to withstand 500psi.
> > A good thing is they say the edges are rounded & I need to push the lens
> through
> > an o-ring that seals on the side.
> > I guess I can buy them & smash them like Alec does if I am not sure of
> their
> > strength.
> > Alan
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > On 18/04/2017, at 8:27 AM, emile via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> > Alec,
> >
> > Get my lamp glass here:
> > http://shop.dev-pein.de/Selbstbau/Glaeser/
> > They are not as brittle as you mention.
> >
> > Br, Emile
> >
> > Van: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-
> bounces at psubs.org] Namens Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles
> > Verzonden: maandag 17 april 2017 20:20
> > Aan: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> > Onderwerp: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Light Experiments
> >
> > Hi Alan,
> >
> > The borosilicate lenses in these parts are $17 each if that is a useful
> reference. I would recommend several spares, because while resistant to
> temperature they are VERY easy to break during installation or if you just
> look at them unkindly. On one light I'm on the first one, but the other
> light took three of them before I learned just how gentle I had to be.
> >
> > Best,
> >
> > Alec
> >
> > On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 8:04 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> > Rick,
> > I should mention that I have now gone with a 36V system &
> > have some pwm dimming controlled buck boost LED drivers being
> > made for me. These could drive Cliff & Alecs light. So waiting for these
> > & a reply on the borosilicate lens enquiry before I go any further.
> > Alan
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > On 17/04/2017, at 11:39 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> > High Rick,
> > to insert the male subconn fitting it has to be turned 15 times as it
> > winds down fully in to the thread; so the wire would be twisted 15 times
> if
> > you went this way.
> > Yes the bolts go right the way through. This avoids tapping threads &
> bolts
> > seizing. It also has the advantage that I can have longer bolts out the
> back
> > that an attachment bracket can be bolted to.
> > The back section in the photo, has the led attached to it & an o-ring
> groove
> > to seal against the bore of the middle section. The base of the middle
> section
> > has an o-ring groove & the back section compresses this when the bolts
> > are tightened up. So two o-rings on this section. The top ring that
> clamps
> > the lens down on to an o-ring (also o-ring around the side of the lens)
> can
> > be made a larger diameter with a second set of bolt holes so the light
> can
> > be mounted in a recess.
> > As the back section is the main heat sink & mount for the LED I don't
> have
> > room for a bunch of twisted wires. The nozzle out back is designed so I
> > can pour resin in to it, let it set, then coat the wiring about an inch
> up &
> > the nozzle with silicone. Then I intend to mold a rubberised supporting
> > section over the silicon. It should work!
> > Pictures attached.
> > Cheers Alan
> > <image1.JPG>
> >
> > <image2.JPG>
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > On 17/04/2017, at 10:08 AM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Alan,
> >
> > Thanks for the picture.
> > The size housing you are using is kinda what I wanted to go with as
> well. Not sure what you mean about screwing something in 15 times. From the
> top view picture you sent, looks like the front head/lens is held on
> against a sealing surface with 6 Allan head bolts that go all the way threw
> the back plate so I assume that the back plate is threaded and screws on
> against an 0 ring or something?
> >  If that's the case, can't you drill and tap the back and put a sub-Conn
> or strain relief fitting in and allow just enough length of wires to
> protrude inside just enough to connect the LED wires to it before attaching
> the lens? Do you have any pictures of everything inside the housing by them
> self's?
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 10:39 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> > Hi Rick,
> > The light in the photos is mk 1 or 2. It didn't have oil in in those
> photos.
> > Funny but the oil bubble & the temperature sensor had no effect on
> > the light coming out.
> >  The latest version has a conical lens machined in it & hides the
> attachment
> > bolts for the LED.
> > Still a work in progress as I have just made enquiries regarding pressure
> > rated borosilicate glass lenses. This light is 85mm D x 54mm long.
> (excluding
> > wiring nozzle) In the attached photo I have just temporarily siliconed
> around
> > the wires for the test. I do have 8 subconn male & female connectors &
> was
> > thinking of tapping a hole for the male connector to fit. The only
> problem is
> > how do I connect the wires? My two LED wires are either side of the LED
> & come
> > down two separate angled holes & meet in a central 8mm hole. I would need
> > to fit the LED then attach the LED wires to the subconn wires & twist
> them 15
> > times to thread in the subconn fitting. The subconn wires are very stiff
> & it
> > just wasn't going to work without a large amount of room for twisted
> wires.
> >    I have some ideas for potting the wires that I will try & test.
> > The housing diameter was dictated by stock material sizes but works out
> well.
> > I have machined the cooling fin slots in to the bolt holes to give the
> fins a bit
> > more depth.
> > Alan
> > <image1.JPG>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > On 17/04/2017, at 5:43 AM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> > Alan,
> >
> > Do these pictures have the silicone oil in them? Do you have any side
> and back shots of the housing and other data regarding the housing like
> wall thickness and what fitting did you use to get the power out of the
> back and such?
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 6:33 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> > I put a temperature probe inside the housing of my 80W LED light.
> > The probe was up against the acrylic lens, as I was concerned about
> > what temperature the lens was seeing on the inside. The lens is 10mm
> > away from the LED.
> > The LED manufacturer told me that on normal LEDs the temperature
> > out the front of the LED can be 338F (170C) but my flip chips should
> > run cooler.
> > Briefly; when run at 30W in water they stabilised at 257F after 5
> minutes.
> > At 45W they stabilised at 280F after 5 minutes. I stopped upping the amps
> > at this stage.
> > Next experiment, I filled the housing with silicone oil.
> > At 45W it hit 116F in 4 minutes & temperature stabilised.
> > At 76W it hit 139F in 6 minutes & stabilised.
> > So oil has massive advantages in lessening temperature on the lens,
> > maybe because it is a buffer from the radiant heat & also transfers the
> heat
> > out through the housing quicker.
> > Greg your thoughts would be appreciated on this; I am thinking that
> without the
> > oil the acrylic lens would see temperatures at which it is formed
> especially
> > if I went up to 80W. Although the outside of the lens was cold there
> would be a
> > temperature transition across the thickness of the lens & it would be
> considerably
> > weakened. I am building to 500ft, so it would potentially see 250 psi in
> operation.
> >    At this stage I haven't made up my mind whether to go with a
> borosilicate lens
> > or oil fill with an acrylic lens. I had a large bubble & it would be
> hard to eliminate
> > all bubbles in the oil filling process.
> > Will try & attach photos.
> > Alan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
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> > <Lights.pdf>
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