[PSUBS-MAILIST] actuated valves?

Sat Apr 15 19:13:29 EDT 2017

Done, I sent you pics directly rather than through the list so I could send
higher resolution.

On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 6:24 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Alec, can you send a picture, very interesting
>
>
> On Saturday, April 15, 2017 4:15 PM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> I once had a whole box full of these 24V Red Hats, which I never used and
> ended up selling on eBay. I kept two of them just in case, and pulled them
> out just now. I believe they're an old style, they have a round body that I
> no longer see on the current ones, but they've never been used. Well, I
> just screwed a piece of pipe into one, stuck the end of the pipe in my
> mouth to "pressurize" the enclosure, and put it under water in the kitchen
> sink. No bubbles, it's properly airtight. This thing could be pressure
> compensated really easily.
>
> On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 5:42 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> I have 3 of the red hat style 24V solenoid valves on the ballast tank of
> my ambient.
>    They work really well but they are a tiny bit more complicated than you
> think
> & are susceptible to corrosion. Be aware that the most common types of
> solenoid
> valves use water or air pressure to help them open, & so are no good on a
> ballast
> tank.
> Hugh, ( who owns a valve firm ) hadn't found a suitable product when we
> discussed
> them a few years ago.
> Alan
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On 16/04/2017, at 8:40 AM, Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> org <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>> wrote:
>
> I use a lot of the new ones - the ASCO "Next Generation" Red Hat valves
> with 24 VDC coils. The electrical characteristics are excellent, and they
> perform well in any position. I just use the standard enclosures, but you
> can get them in NEMA 4X. Don't know how these would take to submerged /
> compensated use, but they would be pretty easy to modify for that purpose.
> The housings come with an integral 1/2 NPTF for a conduit fitting - you
> could easily install a Swagelok tube fitting instead for dielectric oil
> compensation. ASCO does make a line of solenoid valves for naval / marine
> use, but these have only the basic coil electronics and a plastic housing
> that makes them submersible to fifteen feet. Not the ideal coils for
> battery power though. If I could modify the housing and / or compensate to
> make them work, I'd be more inclined to use the Next Gen Red Hats.
> Sean
>
>
> On April 15, 2017 12:03:36 PM MDT, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> org <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>> wrote:
>
> I used the red hat valves on my ROV, they are very good quality, but I
> doubt they are air tight.
>
>
> On Saturday, April 15, 2017 11:36 AM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs. org <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>>
> wrote:
>
>
> There are some Red Hat solenoid valves ! that are advertised as
> submersible to 15 feet and have the wires coming out an NPT port, so those
> could be compensated easily. But they cost a bit more than the air
> suspension ones.
>
> On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 1:27 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> org <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>> wrote:
>
> Alec,
> The valves are not air tight, the coil sits in the water.  It comes down
> to cost really. Sean has a nice idea but your looking at thousands.  An
> oil bath valve bank will cost  around 500 dollars to set up.  In my mind
> both will work, I am making an oil bath valve bank for Elementary just
> because I don't know if it might go in salt water.   We are happy to fill
> our  motors with oil, why not electro magnets.
>
> Greg,
> There are tons of air suspension valves  on Ebay with  switch panels even.
>   I would go with the Valve bank type if your going to oil bath it.
>
>
>
> On Saturday, April 15, 2017 10:44 AM, james cottrell via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>> wrote:
>
>
> Hank,
> Where to get the valves? Thanks, Greg.
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> org <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>>
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> org <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>>
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 15, 2017 10:43 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] actuated valves?
>
> Alec,
> If you want simple, look at electric solenoid valves for venting the
> tanks.  You can buy 8 valves for 100 dollars.  You can plumb the tanks
> together to create 4 zones or you can install one valve directly to each
> tank (12)   The beauty of using more valves is safety.  If one fails, no
> big issue.  You can wire 3 valves together so only need a 5 wire
> penetrator.  The nice thing about this idea is it is cheap to experiment
> with and! no modification to the tanks or sub.
> you will need check valves on the air feed lines so the tanks are not
> connected.  No point in venting one zone if it can send or receive air to
> another zone.
> If you are reluctant to use unprotected valves in fresh water, I can say
> the ones we used on our log salvage ROV never once gave us a problem in two
> years of operation.  I am talking many thousands of dives, actually one
> dive every 7 minutes.
> If your in salt water then you may want to go with an electric valve bank
> with four valves where the valve bank is in an oil tank with a bladder
> mounted behind the CT.   That is how my hydrau! lic valve works for my new
> manipulator.  It is fast and easy to set up, and is what I will do for
> Elementary.  In the mean time you can use cheap valves to figure it all
> out.  Your entire fix (experiment) can be under 200 dollars, then go to oil
> bath solenoids.
> Hank
>
>
> On Saturday, April 15, 2017 6:12 AM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> org <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm mulling over options for re-plumbing Shackleton's MBTs. I can go with
> re-positioned tubing or remotely actuated valves. In principle the tubing
> is easier, but I'm trying to think through all possibilities before
> deciding, and just thought of a new option. There's six tanks per side, and
> the tanks are small so it would be a challenge to put a mushroom valve
> inside each tank. Besides, that would be a dozen valves. However, I could
> also do! just two valves per side, mounted outside and above the tanks,
> with very short hoses or tubes leading from three tanks to each valve.
> There is space, and because the valves would be outside the tanks I have a
> lot more freedom for the size or geometry of the valves. Maybe even normal
> ball valves actuated by a little air cylinder. This system would allow for
> fore-aft and side-to-side control, and would be highly resistant to
> list-induced water blocking.
>
> Anyone have thoughts on the KISSest way to control valves? For example,
> something that could work with unregulated 3K psi air?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alec
>
>
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