[PSUBS-MAILIST] actuated valves?

Sat Apr 15 18:15:16 EDT 2017

I once had a whole box full of these 24V Red Hats, which I never used and
ended up selling on eBay. I kept two of them just in case, and pulled them
out just now. I believe they're an old style, they have a round body that I
no longer see on the current ones, but they've never been used. Well, I
just screwed a piece of pipe into one, stuck the end of the pipe in my
mouth to "pressurize" the enclosure, and put it under water in the kitchen
sink. No bubbles, it's properly airtight. This thing could be pressure
compensated really easily.

On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 5:42 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> I have 3 of the red hat style 24V solenoid valves on the ballast tank of
> my ambient.
>    They work really well but they are a tiny bit more complicated than you
> think
> & are susceptible to corrosion. Be aware that the most common types of
> solenoid
> valves use water or air pressure to help them open, & so are no good on a
> ballast
> tank.
> Hugh, ( who owns a valve firm ) hadn't found a suitable product when we
> discussed
> them a few years ago.
> Alan
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On 16/04/2017, at 8:40 AM, Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> I use a lot of the new ones - the ASCO "Next Generation" Red Hat valves
> with 24 VDC coils. The electrical characteristics are excellent, and they
> perform well in any position. I just use the standard enclosures, but you
> can get them in NEMA 4X. Don't know how these would take to submerged /
> compensated use, but they would be pretty easy to modify for that purpose.
> The housings come with an integral 1/2 NPTF for a conduit fitting - you
> could easily install a Swagelok tube fitting instead for dielectric oil
> compensation. ASCO does make a line of solenoid valves for naval / marine
> use, but these have only the basic coil electronics and a plastic housing
> that makes them submersible to fifteen feet. Not the ideal coils for
> battery power though. If I could modify the housing and / or compensate to
> make them work, I'd be more inclined to use the Next Gen Red Hats.
>
> Sean
>
>
> On April 15, 2017 12:03:36 PM MDT, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>> I used the red hat valves on my ROV, they are very good quality, but I
>> doubt they are air tight.
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, April 15, 2017 11:36 AM, Alec Smyth via
>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>> There are some Red Hat solenoid valves ! that are advertised as
>> submersible to 15 feet and have the wires coming out an NPT port, so those
>> could be compensated easily. But they cost a bit more than the air
>> suspension ones.
>>
>> On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 1:27 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>> Alec,
>> The valves are not air tight, the coil sits in the water.  It comes down
>> to cost really. Sean has a nice idea but your looking at thousands.  An
>> oil bath valve bank will cost  around 500 dollars to set up.  In my mind
>> both will work, I am making an oil bath valve bank for Elementary just
>> because I don't know if it might go in salt water.   We are happy to fill
>> our  motors with oil, why not electro magnets.
>>
>> Greg,
>> There are tons of air suspension valves  on Ebay with  switch panels
>> even.   I would go with the Valve bank type if your going to oil bath it.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, April 15, 2017 10:44 AM, james cottrell via
>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org
>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hank,
>> Where to get the valves? Thanks, Greg.
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.
>> org <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>>
>> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.
>> org <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, April 15, 2017 10:43 AM
>> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] actuated valves?
>>
>> Alec,
>> If you want simple, look at electric solenoid valves for venting the
>> tanks.  You can buy 8 valves for 100 dollars.  You can plumb the tanks
>> together to create 4 zones or you can install one valve directly to each
>> tank (12)   The beauty of using more valves is safety.  If one fails, no
>> big issue.  You can wire 3 valves together so only need a 5 wire
>> penetrator.  The nice thing about this idea is it is cheap to experiment
>> with and! no modification to the tanks or sub.
>> you will need check valves on the air feed lines so the tanks are not
>> connected.  No point in venting one zone if it can send or receive air to
>> another zone.
>> If you are reluctant to use unprotected valves in fresh water, I can say
>> the ones we used on our log salvage ROV never once gave us a problem in two
>> years of operation.  I am talking many thousands of dives, actually one
>> dive every 7 minutes.
>> If your in salt water then you may want to go with an electric valve bank
>> with four valves where the valve bank is in an oil tank with a bladder
>> mounted behind the CT.   That is how my hydrau! lic valve works for my new
>> manipulator.  It is fast and easy to set up, and is what I will do for
>> Elementary.  In the mean time you can use cheap valves to figure it all
>> out.  Your entire fix (experiment) can be under 200 dollars, then go to oil
>> bath solenoids.
>> Hank
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, April 15, 2017 6:12 AM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles
>> <personal_submersibles at psubs. org <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I'm mulling over options for re-plumbing Shackleton's MBTs. I can go with
>> re-positioned tubing or remotely actuated valves. In principle the tubing
>> is easier, but I'm trying to think through all possibilities before
>> deciding, and just thought of a new option. There's six tanks per side, and
>> the tanks are small so it would be a challenge to put a mushroom valve
>> inside each tank. Besides, that would be a dozen valves. However, I could
>> also do! just two valves per side, mounted outside and above the tanks,
>> with very short hoses or tubes leading from three tanks to each valve.
>> There is space, and because the valves would be outside the tanks I have a
>> lot more freedom for the size or geometry of the valves. Maybe even normal
>> ball valves actuated by a little air cylinder. This system would allow for
>> fore-aft and side-to-side control, and would be highly resistant to
>> list-induced water blocking.
>>
>> Anyone have thoughts on the KISSest way to control valves? For example,
>> something that could work with unregulated 3K psi air?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Alec
>>
>>
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