[PSUBS-MAILIST] actuated valves?

Sat Apr 15 12:21:27 EDT 2017

Hi Hank,

Air suspension valves like the one below seem to have the wires coming in
through an NPT port, by means of which I could screw them onto a pressure
compensated pipe. Already having air compensation for the thrusters, that
becomes super easy. Do you think the valves are air tight? I could dip the
whole thing to protect it from corrosion on the outside if it's air tight.

http://wheelsnparts.airslamit.com/airmaxxx-1-2-npt-brass-air-valve.html

Thanks,

Alec

On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 11:05 AM, Alec Smyth <alecsmyth at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Hank. I'm definitely building for salt water. A small cheap
> solenoid valve on each tank sounds attractive, but I'd need to figure out a
> way to encase these valves in oil, or even better an air compensated
> enclosure - ugh! How about something like this? There are much cheaper
> ones. There would be four zones.
>
> http://www.omega.com/pptst/AAV-1100.html
>
> On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 10:43 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> Alec,
>> Try eBay,  "air ride suspension solenoid valves"  you will see a set of
>> 8 for 98 dollars or so.
>> Hank
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:41 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Alec,
>> If you want simple, look at electric solenoid valves for venting the
>> tanks.  You can buy 8 valves for 100 dollars.  You can plumb the tanks
>> together to create 4 zones or you can install one valve directly to each
>> tank (12)   The beauty of using more valves is safety.  If one fails, no
>> big issue.  You can wire 3 valves together so only need a 5 wire
>> penetrator.  The nice thing about this idea is it is cheap to experiment
>> with and no modification to the tanks or sub.
>> you will need check valves on the air feed lines so the tanks are not
>> connected.  No point in venting one zone if it can send or receive air to
>> another zone.
>> If you are reluctant to use unprotected valves in fresh water, I can say
>> the ones we used on our log salvage ROV never once gave us a problem in two
>> years of operation.  I am talking many thousands of dives, actually one
>> dive every 7 minutes.
>> If your in salt water then you may want to go with an electric valve bank
>> with four valves where the valve bank is in an oil tank with a bladder
>> mounted behind the CT.   That is how my hydraulic valve works for my new
>> manipulator.  It is fast and easy to set up, and is what I will do for
>> Elementary.  In the mean time you can use cheap valves to figure it all
>> out.  Your entire fix (experiment) can be under 200 dollars, then go to oil
>> bath solenoids.
>> Hank
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, April 15, 2017 6:12 AM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles
>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I'm mulling over options for re-plumbing Shackleton's MBTs. I can go with
>> re-positioned tubing or remotely actuated valves. In principle the tubing
>> is easier, but I'm trying to think through all possibilities before
>> deciding, and just thought of a new option. There's six tanks per side, and
>> the tanks are small so it would be a challenge to put a mushroom valve
>> inside each tank. Besides, that would be a dozen valves. However, I could
>> also do just two valves per side, mounted outside and above the tanks, with
>> very short hoses or tubes leading from three tanks to each valve. There is
>> space, and because the valves would be outside the tanks I have a lot more
>> freedom for the size or geometry of the valves. Maybe even normal ball
>> valves actuated by a little air cylinder. This system would allow for
>> fore-aft and side-to-side control, and would be highly resistant to
>> list-induced water blocking.
>>
>> Anyone have thoughts on the KISSest way to control valves? For example,
>> something that could work with unregulated 3K psi air?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Alec
>>
>>
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>
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