[PSUBS-MAILIST] Speed controllers
Pete Niedermayr via Personal_Submersibles
personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Fri May 6 15:27:15 EDT 2016
They have shaft seals also
APM Hexseal Panel Seals
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APM Hexseal Panel Seals
APM Hexseal exterior panel and shaft seals. Silicone External Rotary Shaft Seals IP66/68 Rated | |
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From: Pete Niedermayr via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Friday, May 6, 2016 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Speed controllers
What about concentric pots ?
Custom Potentiometer Selection Guide
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Custom Potentiometer Selection Guide
Custom Potentiometers. Modular design with Conductive Plastic or Cermet elements. Many options available. | |
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From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Friday, May 6, 2016 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Speed controllers
A couple of reasons... After chewing on this and hearing feedback from you guys, what I would like from a UI perspective is a combination of Alan's "tractor control" and what I had in Snoopy.
Let's start with the stern thrusters, for which I really like the "tractor control" paradigm. We considered a pair of small single axis joysticks for the stern thrusters. One shortcoming is that they have only 20 or 25 degrees of movement each forward or aft of center. As they're small, and the full throttle gets applied over those 25 degrees, it could be a bit too sensitive. In addition, I would like the control not to have any spring return so that the boat keeps going and I can momentarily take my hands off the controls. We did find a mini-joystick without spring return, but it only had 20 degree range. The pots I used on Snoopy had 270 degrees. Like in Snoopy, what we would do is mount these on the sides (not top) of the control box, and put handles on them rather than knobs. We would mount them so the handles are vertical in the dead zone, and if we can add some sort of mechanical clicker to indicate that position. Like in Snoopy, the pots will have O rings on the shafts.
The side thrusters are a bit trickier. On Snoopy I used to dive positive and used one of the pots to throttle both side thrusters simultaneously. It worked like a charm, it was like having a "depth control." But on the new sub the side thrusters are angled outward, so we will want differential throttling in order to crab, even though I expect crabbing to be relatively rare. From a UI perspective my first choice would have been to control the side thrusters with two parallel slider pots. I would align them right next to each other on the face of the control box, facing fore-aft. For downward thrust slide both down together, for surfacing thrust slide them up. In my experience the side thruster settings are much more static than the stern thrusters, you don't change depth as much as you change direction horizontally. In the rare event you need to crab this is a bit counter-intuitive but you would move the sliders in opposite directions. However, there is a fatal flaw in that plan - we could not find any sliders that are IP66 or IP67 rated, and it's a basic requirement that the control box should survive a direct hit by a wave, or even being dropped in the ocean. We looked at thumb-wheels, which would be almost as nice as the sliders, but those too have watertightness issues. So at the moment the thinking is to use the same trick as for the stern thrusters, but with really tiny handles and the pots perhaps in a small box mounted on top of the main control box. If anyone has any suggestions for something more intuitive that is watertight, I'm all ears! This has been a very valuable discussion thread to me, I really appreciate the input.
Thanks,
Alec
On Fri, May 6, 2016 at 10:04 AM, Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Alec, why not use off the conventional 2 or thee axis joys sticks rather than individually controlling 4 potentiometers connected to motor controllers? It is very easy to have the joysticks act like the pots that are hard wired on the MK controller boards. Just cut the pots off. Three wires are left, 5V supply, signal and ground. Each of the axis on a joystick is typically something like a hall affect potentiometer so you send it 5v and get back as signal a between 0-5vdc signal.
I know KISS principle is important to you but this is very KISS. You don't need a PLC.
Cliff
On Thu, May 5, 2016 at 2:33 PM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Hi Cliff,
It appears the MK controller will do just what I need it to, but there is one detail that has be a bit concerned. From what I see it appears the main motor current is all going through a single spade connector. Close to 50 amps through one of those little guys is a lot, and the connectors themselves don't take very fat cables. Have you had any issues with that?
Thanks,
Alec
On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 10:38 PM, via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/MINN-KOTA-TRAXXIS-TROLLING-MOTOR-MAIN-CONTROL-BOARD-PN-2184017-OR-2184027-/371336409933
Standard part that can be ordered just about everywhere. Shows up on eBay quite often. MK part no. is 2184017.
Cliff Redus
On Apr 19, 2016, at 9:24 PM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Thanks Cliff. Is the controller a component you pulled from inside the MK trolling motor or is it a standalone product? I did a few searches and have not turned up anything standalone. I do have such a unit (really old) but it's for a way lower-powered motor than the 101s.
Best,
Alec
On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 9:58 PM, via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Alan/Alec, I use Minn Kota 36v controllers for each of my 4 thrusters. They have worked great. They are potted and rugged. They have an internal relay with a dead band around 2.5v signal voltage. This means that absolutely no current flows even if you left the motor controller powered up while in the garage.
My previous motor controller for my big traction motor was from Curtis. This worked great but generated a high pitch noise that was irritating.
Cliff Redus
On Apr 19, 2016, at 6:35 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
What did Cliff use?He has been through this process recently with a 101.Alan
From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Speed controllers
No, the one I was considering was not for brushless motors. It's the Roboteq XDC2460, rated for 80A continuous duty per channel. But now I'm looking at Kelly I really like what I'm seeing there too, and Curtis seems to be similar. This will probably come down to a decision between a more advanced dual channel from Roboteq or a super simple single-channel controllers from the likes of Curtis/Kelly. In general if the simpler one can do the job, it's the one I would prefer even if it cost the same.
Thanks guys for all the input!
Alec
On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 6:09 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Hi Alec,that one says brushless?On the Kelly faq page for selecting controllers it suggests.....
HOW TO CHOOSE A SUITABLE CONTROLLER FOR THE MOTOR?
Usually the performance will be optimized if the power of the controller is 2.0-3.0 times of the motor's. I guess that means if you have a 2000W motor you get a controller whose continualamp rating X max voltage is at least 4000W. I have heard that it is better to aire on the safe side as some manufacturers over ratetheir controllers. Kelly have a reputation of being good & cheap, & their ratings accurate,however Hugh has had problems with them & I wired up mine yesterday & the ON lightisn't working when powered up. I put power on it once without the pre-ignition resisterso this may have stuffed it, but surely it wouldn't be so fickle!Alan
From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 9:45 AM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Speed controllers
Hi all,
I need to finalize my selection of speed controllers for Shackleton over the next week or so, and at first blush am looking at this one from Roboteq:
http://www.roboteq.com/index.php/docman/motor-controllers-documents-and-files/documentation/datasheets/hbl23xx/59-hbl23xx-datasheet/file
There will be two of them, each driving a pair of MK101 thrusters. Roboteq offers a controller family that is a step down from this and still handles the required amperage, and which is tempting because it's much less expensive. However, the specs are too close for comfort (50A continuous duty rating vs. MK101 requirement of 46A).
Anyone have any suggestions for other cost-effective controllers to consider?
Thanks,
Alec
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