[PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass

Wed Jun 8 11:09:35 EDT 2016

James,Yes I always thread in  penetrators now, right beside the brush on each side, super easy!  As for taking the motor apart, the wires are coiled inside to allow for removing the end cap with the brushes.  Its a bitch, and I hate it!  but it is better than try to rotate the wires in the tight turn in the housing. Of coarse a test assemble to ensure the wire length works before epoxy is important.  There is potential for damaging a wire and not knowing it is damaged.  Maybe my motors have a tighter turn in them than the 101's.  Either way, I like the way I do it now.  Hankps; nice picture 

    On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 8:58 AM, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

 Hank.   What if you have to take the motors apart for anything?  They are potted now and you get the same problem as I have\had??  I made a brilliant picture. The problem for me is getting the cables from the potted shafts onto the spade terminals while trying to push the brushed back through a 2mm hole.... Probably the same awkward bend as you mentioned.   If I did this again, I would probably have the cables threaded and going outside and then back into the hull through a standard penetrator.  If I read it right that's what you've done.  And I might even do away with the rotating motors and have 4 of them static. 

On 8 June 2016 at 12:39, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

O ya one more thing, to remove the original shaft, heat it up first, there seems to be some sort of lock tight on the threads.Hank 

    On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 5:35 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

 I have opted for drilling and tapping in penetrators rather then run the wires through the shaft opening.  If you go with your wires through the pivot shaft, I found that a two step process works for me.  First I put the wires through the motor opening and seal them in place. The epoxy does not need to go into the motor, so I just silicone the wires at the motor so epoxy does not run into the motor.  Alan had a great idea to use chewing gum.  Then I feed the sealed wires through the shaft and then thread the shaft into the motor and fill with either epoxy or casting resin.  I use a casting resin with super high compressive strength.   If you install the wires with the epoxy into the shaft first, it is a bugger to rotate the shaft into the threads because my motors have an akward bend that the wires have to make.  I have not used 101's though, just 50 lb thrust, but I think they are similar.  Hank 

    On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 4:09 AM, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

 I made the rotating through hulls with 2x brass rods passing through into the hull. Personally, I find these motors and in particular these through hulls the single most time consuming part of psubbing.   Difficult to construct and maintain.    http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/publication2_files/Page21512.htmhttp://www.guernseysubmarine.com/extended_files/Page24592.htm Biggest problem is that when you have filled the inside of the through hull with epoxy, there is no longer any adjustment on the cable.  So you have to make the cables fit without touching any part of the motor innards.  Some sort of modification needed im sure.  Plus the motors jam in the through hull tubes.  Oil compensation is messy and a nuisance.   I have seen Emile's hubless motors and these are much better, but not available to us at the moment I don't think. I just took delivery today of 8 brand new AGM batteries...... :) RegardsJames 
On 7 June 2016 at 19:59, via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

How has everyone retrofitted the MinKota's to have a 1" rotating shaft to go through the penetrators?

Thank you,
Scott Waters

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>  To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
>  Sent: Jun 07 '16 13:10
>
>  I have the Minn-Kota 101,s and would like to see how those who have
>  done it have passed the power cables from the oil filled motor threw
>  the fitting that rotates and passes threw the hull to the inside.
>
>  Rick
>
>  On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 1:53 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
>  <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>  > Brian,
>  > something you could experiment with is applying epoxy to the glass
>  > mat that
>  > you want to adhere or on the sub itself & wait till it gets tacky
>  > before applying it.
>  > Then apply the rest of the epoxy later, wait till the last coat gets
>  > tacky & add some more
>  > glass cloth.
>  > You could take your time with that process, but the epoxy is twice
>  > the cost of the polyester.
>  > Alan
>  >
>  > -------------------------
>  > FROM: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles
>  > <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>  > TO: PSubs <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>  > SENT: Saturday, May 28, 2016 11:20 AM
>  > SUBJECT: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
>  >
>  > Hank, I wanted to mention that some of my brilliant upside down
>  > fiberglass work did not go that great. I did not get the adhesion
>  > that I should have, some place seemed fine but other areas I didn't
>  > get the resin to soak in good enough. I may try something else next
>  > time. I may put an initial coat of resin on the underside, soak the
>  > fiberglass and then try to compress it up there some how with a
>  > plastic mold release barrier.
>  >
>  > Brian
>  > _______________________________________________
>  > Personal_Submersibles mailing list
>  > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
>  > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
>  >
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>  > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
>  > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
>
>
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