[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED light bar
Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Mon Jun 22 19:20:21 EDT 2015
That could work well Keith,maybe a close fitting aluminium tube around the capacitor that extends above it.Slide the tube down over the capacitor in to a bed of heat sink epoxy or maybe standard epoxy,then pour a bit of epoxy in to the top of the tube, sealing the top of the capacitor.This seems a great solution for fool proofing these oil filled lights.Alan
From: via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED light bar
There is a potting compound called heat sink epoxy, that transfers component heat. One could have a aluminum heat sink that is imbeaded in this epoxy to conduct the heat to the water.
I only know about this from a job I had (in another life..lol) potting high voltage power supplies for a company that contracted to make supplies for NASA. No electrolitics were used all epoxy button caps and potted in heat sink epoxy.
Hope this helps.
Keith T
Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>When I had a visit at Nuytco, Dr Phil handed me a DW light and it seems to me it was a complete unit with electronics. .....You mean this one (attached picture) below Hank. It doesn't seem to have any reflectors. I am just being precautionary bringing up the fact that these units have electrolytic capacitors. They may take the pressure.I have seen people pot them to give them strength, however they fail by overheating so this might exacerbate the heating problem.Below is part of an article on led drivers.Electrolytic Capacitors – LED drivers Achilles Heal
>The majority of high power (>15W) LED drivers employ electrolytic capacitors either on the input AC stage to enable filtering of noise or on the output channel DC stage of the driver.It is well known that electrolytic capacitors are one of the weakest elements of a driver circuit and frequently result in failure, especially at elevated temperaturesEnvironmental factors affecting the service life of an aluminum electrolytic capacitor include temperature, humidity and vibration (environment), as well as electrical factors, applied voltage, ripple current and charging/discharging conditions. In capacitors for mid-to-high-voltage filters, temperature and applied voltage are the most important controlling factors. The estimated service life may be calculated based on the core temperature of the capacitor and the applied voltage.Full article...http://www.mondoarc.com/technology/LED/228719/driving_responsibly.html
>
> From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 12:17 AM
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED light bar
>
>
>Alec,
>Good to hear that they still work. There is plenty of room for a proper penetrator in the end cap and as I said they are very robust. The cable comes out the back of the light in between the cooling fins, I am not sure about putting the penetrator in that spot though. I am going with a p trap tube for simplicity. A little fresh water is no biggy, it will just sink to the bottom of the housing. When I had a visit at Nuytco, Dr Phil handed me a DW light and it seems to me it was a complete unit with electronics.
>
>Rick, I will get some pictures together to show what I did.
>Hank --------------------------------------------
>On Sun, 6/21/15, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED light bar
> To: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Received: Sunday, June 21, 2015, 10:36 PM
>
> I have,
> and so far so good with a caveat. I have two lights. They
> both still work well after a year, and have been to 250
> feet. That said, one of them replaced a little of the oil
> with fresh water on the last outing. I think the problem was
> where the cable enters the housing, because it got severely
> pulled sideways (light snagged in tow line). These are
> really well made, but even better would be a light like you
> say with a part can be pulled for drilling and tapping.
> Hank, do you think there's enough space to install a
> proper electrical penetrator? I would love to get rid of the
> weak spot factory cable seal.
> Thanks,
>
> Alec
> On Sun, Jun 21, 2015 at
> 9:40 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> wrote:
>
>
> Alan,
>
> Hmmm maybe I should remove the electronics and put them
> inside the sub. I thought Alec was doing the same thing,
> just flooding the whole light.
>
> Hank--------------------------------------------
>
> On Sun, 6/21/15, Alan James via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED light bar
>
> To: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion"
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>
> Received: Sunday, June 21, 2015, 9:31 PM
>
>
>
> Hank,the led
>
> electronics I've looked at
> in some of my
>
> lampshave
>
> electrolytic capacitors in them, which can crush under
>
> pressure.So
>
> "if" it fails at depth this may be a heads up
> as
>
> to why.Alan
>
>
>
>
>
> From: hank pronk
> via
>
> Personal_Submersibles
>
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>
>
>
> To:
>
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org
>
> Sent: Monday, June 22,
>
> 2015 12:09 PM
>
> Subject:
>
> [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED light bar
>
>
>
>
>
> Success, my new light bar is installed and full
>
> of oil. It was remarkably easy, the end caps come off
> the
>
> bar and are quite heavy, so tapping a 1/8 pipe thread
> was
>
> easy. I filled the light while the end cap was off
> then
>
> reassembled it and topped it up through the hose
> fitting.
>
> I have a p trap line (1/8 nylon) and the whole
> conversion
>
> takes less than an hr. The light works just fine,
> maybe
>
> not as bright as my halogen lights but much easier on
>
> power. The light runs on 10 amps at 24V. 24,000 lumen
>
> Hank
>
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