[PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles
personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Thu Jun 18 14:40:08 EDT 2015
It is nothing but a T shape sealed by a spring. If internal pressure builds
up, it pushes the spring and the valve opens. So it is a normally closed
valve... but I suppose you could say its "open all the time" in the sense
that anytime pressure builds up, it will open.
On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 2:35 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> Couldn't you, theoretically, have that valve open to the outside all the
> time?
>
> Brian
>
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>
> From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
> Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2015 12:15:57 -0400
>
> I think most have an OP valve, and I'd strongly encourage any who don't to
> put one in. If you read Kittredge's book, the lack of an OP valve was the
> cause of the only K-boat accident so far. Fortunately nothing happened to
> him, but Kittredge had a slow cabin air leak during his dive and upon
> surfacing blew out the dome when just below the surface. He was blown out
> himself with it. The sub sank, and he proceeded to re-float it without
> losing beat. I use the OP valve routinely to equalize pressure so I can
> open the hatch easily. Just a little push on the stem does it. One thing
> about OP valves, they have to be capable of handling large flow rates.
> Don't use a little Swagelok check valve or such small thing.
>
> Best,
>
> Alec
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 10:55 AM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Also Alec, I noticed your check valve overpressure valve in the photo
> section. That seems like a great solution to the problem! I guess I was
> not aware of that, does everybody have one of those?
>
>
> Brian
>
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>
> From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
> Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2015 05:25:30 -0700
>
>
> personally, I always avoid welding a machined part to the hull. I weld a
> flange or nipple to the hull then bolt or thread the machined part to
> that. This is my solution to a lack of tooling and expertise.
> Hank --------------------------------------------
> On Thu, 6/18/15, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
> To: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Received: Thursday, June 18, 2015, 4:58 AM
>
> Hi
> Alec\Brian, Yes, maybe it would
> push in. A flat step would probably be better like you
> say. But maybe im over thinking it as usual. Probably
> not required. Brian, I used the
> 5\8ths bar because that's what was specified on the
> plans. However, its also convenient for using a 16mm
> reamer for the bore.
> regardsJames
> On 18 June 2015 at 03:04,
> Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> wrote:
> Oh cool ! Thanks Alec
> ! I owe you much over the years
> ! Brian
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org
> wrote:
>
> From: Alec Smyth via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
> Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 16:40:56 -0400
>
> Hi Brian,
> I tend to use quite thick
> through-hulls because its easier for me to machine the
> O-ring grooves into the shaft than into the insert. In my
> case its just a matter of the tooling I have on hand. If you
> have the tooling to put the grooves in the insert, half an
> inch is fine for many applications.
> Best,
>
> Alec
> On
> Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Brian Cox via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> wrote:
> Alec, James, I'm
> using mostly 1/2" stainless rod through-out for most
> all of my hull penetrations ( for valves and flaps) , I
> noticed in the example it was a 5/8" rod, Why such a
> heavy duty thickness? Was that for a particular
> function? Brian
>
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org
> wrote:
>
> From: Alec Smyth via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
> Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 14:03:17 -0400
>
> Hi James,
> I think
> with the taper, this would tend to push in and jam. The idea
> is neat, however, and would probably work fine with a step
> instead of a taper. On the other hand, does an O ring sealed
> through-hull ever fail catastrophically? I've had the
> odd drip, but that's all I've bad as I've
> seen.
> Best,
> Alec
> On
> Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 12:26 PM, James Frankland via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> wrote:
> Hi All Seeing as its a
> bit quite I thought I would show this idea. Its super
> simple.... I have been thinking how
> you could stop a leaking through hull. Thinking of K boat
> type 5\8th through hulls as in the
> plans. I believe Scott had a leak
> when he did his deep test due to a faulty O ring?
>
> Anyway, here is my idea. It
> would take a little bit more machining, but not much.
> Machine the 5\8ths bar with a taper on the protruding
> part and a taper on the top to help push the bar through.
> (I did that on mine anyway). The handle is made with a cam
> type end.
>
> If you get a
> leak, you can pull the handle up. The bar would be pulled
> up, forcing the taper to jam into the penetrator, hopefully
> stopping most of the leak. I suppose you could even
> machine a matching taper into the start of the through hull
> to match? I suppose the bar could get
> pushed through and jam on its own. That's a
> possibility. Pic
> attached. Kind
> RegardsJames
>
>
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