[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Sat Jul 25 19:54:48 EDT 2015

No problem with the extra wire length, 2.10 amperes is the current to the array.

Ken

From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 6:26 PM
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

More reflector thoughts.

Maybe just design for the 40 degree relector & use a spacer

under the emitter to lift it nearer to the lense for the 80 degrees,

& find a reflector (if needed) to suit. Would need enough length of wiring

between driver & emitter to be able to do this.

Alan

  _____  

From: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > 
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2015 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Ken, 

in your latest document you are stating....There are a number of reflectors made for this 29 LED Array with beam angles of 18, 28 and 40 degrees

Looking on my favourite underwater light site, I found the following beam angles...

3 with 85 degree flood, 1 with 85 & 32 spot option, 2 with 77 or 30, 2 with 75 or 38 & 1 with 65 flood.

It seems up round 80 degrees is the most popular.

I like the idea of being able to interchange reflectors to have either a wide or narrow beam.

To get the 80 degree flood we would need to create a housing so that the emitter was near enough to the 

lense to be able to get that wide angle. With a reflector that was more narrow we could then reduce the angle

to suit.

There are miriads of reflectors on the Deal Extreme site (search on reflector). These are usually for flash lights

& bike lights so not sure if we would get an 80 degree angle.

Here is a bridgelux 80 degree reflector but about 3" diameter.

 <http://darkoo.en.alibaba.com/product/60081774368-221072235/Bridgelux_COB_led_reflector_DK7560_REF_K_B_75mm_80_degree_white_reflector_high_efficiency_new_product.html> http://darkoo.en.alibaba.com/product/60081774368-221072235/Bridgelux_COB_led_reflector_DK7560_REF_K_B_75mm_80_degree_white_reflector_high_efficiency_new_product.html

I can do an extensive Google on this, but any thoughts on this direction first?

Alan

  _____  

From: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > 
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2015 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Cliff,

the retaining ring for the lense could easily be made larger &

have holes drilled for attachment, if people wanted to modify the design for there own 

purposes. Also noted on the D.S.P.&L. site that they have multiple options for different

brands of connectors. Again just make the thread on our generic housing for whatever

connector or blue globe cable gland we want.

Alan

  _____  

From: Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > 
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2015 2:17 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Alan, my thinking is that with the flange, you could mount the light either way.  On the new boat I am designing, I am planning a FRP recess so that outside of the flange is flush with the outside of the FRP shell.  Would still need to cut a hole were the body passes through the FRP shell.  Yes this does reduce the convection heat transfer from the light but I was thinking of leaving say a 3/8 clearance around the recessed flange.  I don't see any problem with either approach to sealing on a MPB by using a neoprene flat gadget.

Cliff

On Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 3:58 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:

Cliff,

I was thinking of fitting the light in to a bowl shaped

recess in the fairing / ballast tank, whereas you were proposing

cutting a hole out & fitting it in. In hindsight your idea is better

because my idea would inhibit the heat dispersion due to the fiberglass

surrounding the light fitting.

Alan

  _____  

From: Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > 
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Alan, I am visual kind of guy.  Can send me sketch of what you are describing and we can talk.

Cliff

On Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 3:23 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:

Looks a good solid light Cliff.

On looking at the perpendicular cable entry, I was thinking we

need a back entry for the purposes of mounting in to a housing

in the fairing as you have requested in your list.

I am looking at mounting in to ballast tanks so will create the shape 

of the light in the molding to receive it. If there was a threaded

extension on the back of the light it could slot through a hole & be secured

with a nut. This would make it easier to seal off the ballast tanks in

my situation.

Alan

  _____  

From: Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > 
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 1:55 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Ken, if you go to Youtube and do a search on https://youtu.be/D7VnwODU7vk, or 5000 Lumen Bridgelux Vero 18 LED light, you will see a short video of the light.

Cliff

On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 3:29 PM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:

Cliff,

How do I look at them??

Ken

From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org> ] On Behalf Of Clifford Redus via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 4:18 PM
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Now that Jon has the forum site set up for the LED light project, my suggestion is to move the discussion to the forum site called out in Jon's email.  BTW, I have uploaded to the site the wiring diagram and housing drawings for the 5000 Lumen light that was designed by the ME students I was mentoring last year.

Cliff

On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 2:55 PM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:

Doing the dimming electrically is easy but the problem is the extra wiring and where do you mount the Potentiometer?

We can include the wires in the cable for use as an option this also complicates the cabling. Instead of two wires we would require 4 wires.

Personally I also like the dimming since it will extend the time you can use it out of the water. Anybody also like or dislike? Cliff would like to delete.

You guys be sure to keep reading the spec. it will have almost daily updates for a while.

Ken

From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 3:31 PM
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Cliff, Ken,

I like the dimming option. The 10,000 lumens may be too much light in

some low visibility conditions where there is a lot of back scatter.

The 5,000 lumen option may act like a fog light.

Also I am thinking of having lights mounted to the side which may not

need to be as intense.

Depth rating.... looking at the drawings of various 10,000 meter light housings,

it seems simple to achieve a reasonable depth without much more cost.

Potting the board..... I would be careful about what was potted in case some of the

components needed to get rid of a bit of heat.

Mechanical housing..... with you on that one Cliff. Like the idea of the recessed light.

Alan

  _____  

From: Clifford Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > 
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2015 4:06 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Ken, good first pass at the specs.  Below are comments.  BTW, I will post these here as I have not been able to get the activation code back yet on registering at the forum.

Item 2.1 DC Voltage.  If it were me, I would stick with nominal battery bank voltages of 24 and 36 VDC.  When I switch to MK 101 thrusters, I dropped my main battery bank voltage to 36VDC my instrumentation bus is 24VDC.  Would need a single fuse holder to accept fuses to handle different nominal voltages.

Item 4.0 Depth Requirement.  In the spirit of keeping cost down, I think 500 meters (1640 ft) would be more than enough.  I know Scott is designing a deep diving boat but is any one else shooting for more than 500m?

6.0 Dimming.   I would omit the ability to dim the light.  Yes I know it is easy from an electrical point of view but it forces us to go with more pins on the subsea connector.  I am thinking on installing multiple lighs so I could just control on/off for each light.  I could go either way on this but in the spirit of KISS, I vote to omit dimming.

8.3 Ports  I would change plastic to acrylic.  I don't think we will end up here but if we do, we can use PVHO flat view port calcs to size the acrylic lens.

9.0 Printed Wiring Boards.  I really like the way the Minn-Kota motor controller PWBs are potted.  Rather than using the spray on hydrophobic coatings, to me we should pot the board (accept for access to fuse).  Therefore suggest changing the word coated to potted.

11.0 Mechanical Housing.  I suggest.  The LED panel light and PCB shall be contained in a single 1-atm flange mounted cylindrical housing with a low profile that can be recessed in a FRP shell with attachment screws from the rear of the flange.  The housing should contain a single 29 LED Array rated at 10,000 lumens  with a rated power of  91-140 lumens/W (109-71W).  Mounting holes will be provided for an optional SS yoke style support bracket.  

Material: Hard anodized 6061-T6 or 7071-T6  TBD (I have a grey beard machinist friend that owns a machine shop.  He loves 7071-T6 as it is a dream to machine and stronger than 6061-T6.

On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 9:52 AM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:

Cost is critical. The electronics should be a small part of the cost. The housing might be the most expensive.

Hope you guys are reading the specification.

Ken

From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org> ] On Behalf Of Clifford Redus via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 10:18 AM
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Jon, thanks for setting up the forum.  I am assuming we can post files as well.

 I agree low cost is important but having a functioning light is as well.  OTS LED utility lights like that one you noted are not an option unless they can be potted.  To me the best way to keep the cost low, is to publish construction drawings of a 1-atm  DIY housing that a psubber could machine or have machined by a friend, and publish a design of a PCB that could be easily fabricated using  one of the PCB online sites like  ExperessPCB www.expresspcb.com <http://www.expresspcb.com/>  and DIY populate the board.  As a group, we design and build a prototype that I can test in my shop. If it works as designed, then we post to the psubs site a report, that includes the design drawings, circuit diagram, parts list and test results. 

Getting a consciences on the design spec is the first step. 

Cliff

On Wed, Jul 22, 2015 at 10:11 PM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:

My three words of advice...cost, cost, cost.

One measure of a success for this project will be how many people actually build/use it.  If it costs more to manufacture than just purchasing something like http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd off the shelf then it's real world application by psubbers may be limited.

Over-spec'ing the design above requirements for typical recreational operations (ie 10,000 psi capability) is likely going to drive up the cost.  Also, let's remember that "cheap", "low cost", and "good price" are relative terms for a diverse group like PSUBS so include realistic estimates of parts and manufacturing especially if tooling is required.

Jon

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