[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Fri Jul 24 15:21:06 EDT 2015

Hi Cliff,

I think she's going to be called Shackleton and thanks for the kind words.
I dunno, based on your suggestion I should call her "Ballsy" on account of
the stern floats. I'd also considered "Naughtylus." I dunno, sort of looks
like a pregnant goldfish to me, with some leftover Soviet space program
junk bolted to the stern, but she's growing on me. Dave Colombo took one
look and said "Proton drive!" which I think nailed it. Those balls on the
stern are actually big trawl floats. You get almost 40 lbs of buoyancy from
each, they're rated to 2600 feet, and cost very little. I put them at the
stern because I could fit in five of them without increasing the cross
section, and they are really easy to mount because they have a shaft hole
right through the middle. And believe it or not I rather like the bizarre
look - but it was purely driven by engineering decisions.

I do in fact have a double dome, with the space in between being free
flooding to act as a shock absorber. However, there will be a tripod crash
bar in front all the same. In fact I'm expecting the bent tubes for that
any moment, and should be able to weld it up next week. I got a lot of
respect for crash protection after ripping the claw off Snoopy in a
collision with some rocks a few years back. The bolts that secure the claw
were all sheared off clean, as if I'd used a bolt cutter on them. This sub
weighing 4400 lbs instead of 2400, I wouldn't trust the squishy outer dome
to stop it.

The freeboard should be about 32 inches and the draft 32 as well. Compare
to Snoopy with 13" freeboard and draft of 35". But I don't expect to see
anything out of the bow dome when surfaced. The edge of the dome will be
about touching the surface, not above it to any measurable degree.

I'll update the project page in a week or two, the crash bars are coming
and there bow fairing is complete.

Thanks,

Alec

On Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 11:37 AM, Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Thanks, I am happy with the light.  Just wish we had the 10,000 lumen
> version available to us when we did the project.
>
> OAS, I finally got around to looking at Woodstock.  She is going to look
> sweet in the water.  I love the lines of the boat.  Noticed you shortened
> her from her Solo days.  If I am seeing the picture correctly, it looks
> like you have a protective acrylic cover over that beautiful bow viewport
> Greg fabricated for you.  That's a nice way to protect the viewport
> without bars obstructing the view.    Judging on the size of your straddle
> MBTs, it looks like you are going to have quite a bit of freeboard.  From
> your estimated water level with the MBTs fully blown, can you see above the
> waterline while sitting near the bow viewport?   Lastly, I like the aft
> syntactic foam balls but to me you should replace the 5 balls with just two
> big ones oriented horizontally.  After all, most outsiders think we must
> have big ones to take these boats out!
>
> Cliff
>
> On Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 9:51 AM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> All right, I'm officially impressed! That is fantastic Cliff.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alec
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 9:55 AM, Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Ken, if you go to Youtube and do a search on
>>> https://youtu.be/D7VnwODU7vk, or 5000 Lumen Bridgelux Vero 18 LED
>>> light, you will see a short video of the light.
>>>
>>> Cliff
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 3:29 PM, Ken Martindale via
>>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Cliff,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> How do I look at them??
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ken
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Personal_Submersibles [mailto:
>>>> personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] *On Behalf Of *Clifford Redus
>>>> via Personal_Submersibles
>>>> *Sent:* Thursday, July 23, 2015 4:18 PM
>>>> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Now that Jon has the forum site set up for the LED light project, my
>>>> suggestion is to move the discussion to the forum site called out in Jon's
>>>> email.  BTW, I have uploaded to the site the wiring diagram and housing
>>>> drawings for the 5000 Lumen light that was designed by the ME students I
>>>> was mentoring last year.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cliff
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 2:55 PM, Ken Martindale via
>>>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Doing the dimming electrically is easy but the problem is the extra
>>>> wiring and where do you mount the Potentiometer?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> We can include the wires in the cable for use as an option this also
>>>> complicates the cabling. Instead of two wires we would require 4 wires.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Personally I also like the dimming since it will extend the time you
>>>> can use it out of the water. Anybody also like or dislike? Cliff would like
>>>> to delete.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You guys be sure to keep reading the spec. it will have almost daily
>>>> updates for a while.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ken
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Personal_Submersibles [mailto:
>>>> personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] *On Behalf Of *Alan James via
>>>> Personal_Submersibles
>>>> *Sent:* Thursday, July 23, 2015 3:31 PM
>>>> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cliff, Ken,
>>>>
>>>> I like the dimming option. The 10,000 lumens may be too much light in
>>>>
>>>> some low visibility conditions where there is a lot of back scatter.
>>>>
>>>> The 5,000 lumen option may act like a fog light.
>>>>
>>>> Also I am thinking of having lights mounted to the side which may not
>>>>
>>>> need to be as intense.
>>>>
>>>> Depth rating.... looking at the drawings of various 10,000 meter light
>>>> housings,
>>>>
>>>> it seems simple to achieve a reasonable depth without much more cost.
>>>>
>>>> Potting the board..... I would be careful about what was potted in case
>>>> some of the
>>>>
>>>> components needed to get rid of a bit of heat.
>>>>
>>>> Mechanical housing..... with you on that one Cliff. Like the idea of
>>>> the recessed light.
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Clifford Redus via Personal_Submersibles <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>> *Sent:* Friday, July 24, 2015 4:06 AM
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ken, good first pass at the specs.  Below are comments.  BTW, I will
>>>> post these here as I have not been able to get the activation code back yet
>>>> on registering at the forum.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Item 2.1 DC Voltage.  If it were me, I would stick with nominal battery
>>>> bank voltages of 24 and 36 VDC.  When I switch to MK 101 thrusters, I
>>>> dropped my main battery bank voltage to 36VDC my instrumentation bus is
>>>> 24VDC.  Would need a single fuse holder to accept fuses to handle different
>>>> nominal voltages.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Item 4.0 Depth Requirement.  In the spirit of keeping cost down, I
>>>> think 500 meters (1640 ft) would be more than enough.  I know Scott is
>>>> designing a deep diving boat but is any one else shooting for more than
>>>> 500m?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 6.0 Dimming.   I would omit the ability to dim the light.  Yes I know
>>>> it is easy from an electrical point of view but it forces us to go with
>>>> more pins on the subsea connector.  I am thinking on installing multiple
>>>> lighs so I could just control on/off for each light.  I could go either way
>>>> on this but in the spirit of KISS, I vote to omit dimming.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 8.3 Ports  I would change plastic to acrylic.  I don't think we will
>>>> end up here but if we do, we can use PVHO flat view port calcs to size the
>>>> acrylic lens.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 9.0 Printed Wiring Boards.  I really like the way the Minn-Kota motor
>>>> controller PWBs are potted.  Rather than using the spray on hydrophobic
>>>> coatings, to me we should pot the board (accept for access to fuse).
>>>> Therefore suggest changing the word coated to potted.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 11.0 Mechanical Housing.  I suggest.  The LED panel light and PCB shall
>>>> be contained in a single 1-atm flange mounted cylindrical housing with a
>>>> low profile that can be recessed in a FRP shell with attachment screws from
>>>> the rear of the flange.  The housing should contain a single 29 LED Array
>>>> rated at 10,000 lumens  with a rated power of  91-140 lumens/W (109-71W).
>>>> Mounting holes will be provided for an optional SS yoke style support
>>>> bracket.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Material: Hard anodized 6061-T6 or 7071-T6  TBD (I have a grey beard
>>>> machinist friend that owns a machine shop.  He loves 7071-T6 as it is a
>>>> dream to machine and stronger than 6061-T6.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 9:52 AM, Ken Martindale via
>>>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cost is critical. The electronics should be a small part of the cost.
>>>> The housing might be the most expensive.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hope you guys are reading the specification.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ken
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Personal_Submersibles [mailto:
>>>> personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] *On Behalf Of *Clifford Redus
>>>> via Personal_Submersibles
>>>> *Sent:* Thursday, July 23, 2015 10:18 AM
>>>> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Jon, thanks for setting up the forum.  I am assuming we can post files
>>>> as well.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>  I agree low cost is important but having a functioning light is as
>>>> well.  OTS LED utility lights like that one you noted are not an option
>>>> unless they can be potted.  To me the best way to keep the cost low, is to
>>>> publish construction drawings of a 1-atm  DIY housing that a psubber could
>>>> machine or have machined by a friend, and publish a design of a PCB that
>>>> could be easily fabricated using  one of the PCB online sites like
>>>>  ExperessPCB www.expresspcb.com and DIY populate the board.  As a
>>>> group, we design and build a prototype that I can test in my shop. If it
>>>> works as designed, then we post to the psubs site a report, that includes
>>>> the design drawings, circuit diagram, parts list and test results.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Getting a consciences on the design spec is the first step.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cliff
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Jul 22, 2015 at 10:11 PM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles
>>>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> My three words of advice...cost, cost, cost.
>>>>
>>>> One measure of a success for this project will be how many people
>>>> actually build/use it.  If it costs more to manufacture than just
>>>> purchasing something like
>>>> http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd
>>>> off the shelf then it's real world application by psubbers may be limited.
>>>>
>>>> Over-spec'ing the design above requirements for typical recreational
>>>> operations (ie 10,000 psi capability) is likely going to drive up the
>>>> cost.  Also, let's remember that "cheap", "low cost", and "good price" are
>>>> relative terms for a diverse group like PSUBS so include realistic
>>>> estimates of parts and manufacturing especially if tooling is required.
>>>>
>>>> Jon
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
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>>>>
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>>>
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>>
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>
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