[PSUBS-MAILIST] MK-101 Connectors

[via Personal_Submersibles]

Still, I'd say it was worth checking a bulkhead penetrator and cable for the hull side (some standard length of rubber jacketed cable, three feet, six feet, ten feet--whatever) with the wet-mateable termination for the thruster. It might be less expensive, and you probably won't have to change the cable penetrator end in the foreseeable future. Plus the electrical connections will have one pair less of unsoldered connections to go through. Might save fifty bucks a set, which would be substantial for us multi-thruster types.
Vance



-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Wed, Jul 30, 2014 8:31 am
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MK-101 Connectors


          
    

      A male connector threaded directly into the housing shaft stub is      going to suffer the same potential of broken pins depending upon      handling.  One clumsy move and you may have an unusable motor in      the field so you'd have to carry some spare male connectors just      in case.  Additionally, unless you have a configuration in which      you can slide the motor into it's mounting and at the same time      mate the male (motor) and female (hull) connectors you're going to      end up with a pigtail or cable of some sort to make the electrical      connection from motor to hull.  So I think you'd be better off      with a female connector on the motor and a cable with two male      connectors to make the electrical connection if a cable is      required to make the electrical connection.
      
      If SubConn could produce a two pin high power connector you could      save penetrations by using a 4 pin female on the hull to feed two      motors.  This would require a custom cable but the K600 used a      similar configuration for the original lights.
      
      When we did our last minn-kota order the saltwater versions were      the same price as the fresh water versions so there was no      incentive to go with fresh even though they would work just as      well.
      
      Jon
      
      
      On 7/30/2014 6:15 AM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles wrote:
    
    
      
        
David & Cliff
        
was thinking that if we            used the 4 pin high power connector,
        
http://macartney.com/sites/default/files/brochures/SubConn_High_Power_4pins_0.pdf
          
        
then the 2 spare pins could have a thermister on          them measuring the motor temperature 
        
as you were intending to do David.
        
The HPBH4M "male" fitting on the motor would          mean you would have as Cliff suggested, the safety feature
        
in that if the male & female came apart the          live end would be female & wouldn't short on anything
        
(apart from water).
        
I am wondering if there is any off the shelf          adapter we could use to screw this straight on to the motor          wiring outlet.
        
Also is it feasable to attach bayonets or          whatever to the pigtails (does it have pigtails) to fit them          directly to the motor electrics.
        
Can this be done while the motor is apart &          then be put back together?
        
Any thoughts?
        
Cliff, are you intending to use the saltwater          motor controller?
        
http://www.minnkotamotors.com/advantage/saltwater.aspx?sectionID=3
        
        
Alan
        
      
    
    
  

_______________________________________________
Personal_Submersibles mailing list
Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles

 
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://www.whoweb.com/pipermail/personal_submersibles/attachments/20140730/0a389d41/attachment-0001.html>