[PSUBS-MAILIST] Aluminum Welding Technique Question

Wed Apr 23 10:32:16 EDT 2014

Hi All,
I was going to write my 2 pence worth (UK version) in reply to this, but im
just going to attach a sheet i wrote which covers all i was going to say.
I know there are a lot of expert welders on the forum, so this is just my
personal take on it.  I can get good results most times. Personally, i
dislike the "balled electrode" thinking.  It will ball to a certain extent
of course, but I dont like it to become bigger than the diameter of the
electrode.  With correct frequency and as little cleaning as you can get
away with, i can keep the ball small and arc tight.  The only thing not on
this sheet is that torch angle is important.  As near to straight up and
down as possible, this prevents the rod turning into a sausage before you
get it into the pool.

Just my 2p.
Kind Regards
James F

On 23 April 2014 01:01, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

>  Thanks Dan.  I did use 100% argon gas but my tungsten has a red band (2%
> thoriated).  I am also getting to know my machine settings so I'm sure they
> where off. Lots to learn!
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 7:28 PM, Daniel Lance via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>> Are you using pure tungsten ( green band on one end ) and argon shielding
>> gas ? . With the torch set on DC+ you will usually experience a tungsten
>> melt down. Just set the machine on AC and run a pass on some scrap aluminum
>> . You will get a balled end . Not to complicate things but a balled end is
>> not exactly the most preferred condition in the world. But unless you have
>> an inverter type machine with lots of parameter adjustments you really
>> don't have much choice.  Alec is correct the amperage setting depends on
>> the thickness of the material you are working with . If you are trying to
>> join a thin piece to a thick piece its ok to preheat the thick piece first
>> , just don't exceed 250 degrees F. Old oxidized aluminum is very difficult
>> to weld unless the crusty white scale is removed . It should be nice and
>> "shiny" before you start . And of course a little preheat never hurt
>> anybody . Aluminum is a near perfect material for marine use , it is easy
>> to cut , form , shape and weld . It can be painted , anodized or just left
>> in its original mill finish.
>> As far getting welding advice from Youtube , the only source I would
>> recommend is "Welding Tips and Tricks" . This guy is really, really good .
>> Hope this helps,
>> Dan Lance
>>
>>
>>  On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Steve McQueen via
>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>>     I attempted some Aluminum welding this weekend.  I needed to tack 2
>>> together pieces of a trolling motor mount I modified for my stern thruster.
>>>
>>> I watched a video that said it is important to first first strike an arc
>>> on DC+ for a few seconds to create a "ball" on the tungsten tip prior to
>>> going back to the AC mode.
>>>
>>> It was unclear in the video if the arc was being struck on an Aluminum
>>> piece or the Steel welding table surface.  Does it matter?
>>>
>>> Also they said the amp range should be set to 55-75.  Seem OK?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Steve
>>>
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>>> Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
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>>>
>>>
>>
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>
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