[PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch and vent
jimtoddpsub at aol.com
jimtoddpsub at aol.com
Mon Dec 16 20:41:05 EST 2013
Alan,
I have two domes so I'm going with indicator lights on an LED screen. Acrylic cylinders with hatches would be an alternative that would provide additional freeboard but also raise the CG. Still lots of decisions ahead.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan <alanlindsayjames at yahoo.com>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Mon, Dec 16, 2013 7:27 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch and vent
Jim,
I had a look at the hatch in the 3d mode & no wiring, however on
their computer there is a field entitled "pre-dive". I am wondering
If they have to tick all the boxes before the valves to fill the ballast
tanks are enabled, & that this is good enough for G.L.
Alan
Sent from my iPad
On 17/12/2013, at 2:13 PM, jimtoddpsub at aol.com wrote:
Hi Alan,
I like the latch mechanism - looks very clean, adjustable rods, pivoting dogs. I don't see wiring or sensors either, but they could be on the dog just out of the pic at the top. The sub is GL classed. Makes me curious.
The OP system seems to cover all the bases. Cutoff valve (red handle) in case the AOP fails open; manual OP valve (blue handle) if the AOP fails closed or to relieve underpressure; and the bend will catch any minor drips. Seawater will have to be backflushed. If you pulled vac before diving and the sub cooled while submerged, you could easily have underpressure when you surface.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan <alanlindsayjames at yahoo.com>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Mon, Dec 16, 2013 4:39 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch and vent
Thanks Jim,
That was quite interesting.
In the hatch picture they have a stop valve with a bend, then an over pressure
valve & a manual valve for a final pressure equalisation. This conforms with G.L.
to that point but I can't see any mechanism that ensures full equalisation before
the hatch is opened. Also I couldn't see any wiring or mechanism that would relay
Information that the hatch was open (might be out of view).
Re Jon's comments about interior colour ; I've heard that dark is the way to go
to avoid ghosting on the inner surfaces of the acrylic.
Alan
Sent from my iPad
On 17/12/2013, at 9:57 AM, jimtoddpsub at aol.com wrote:
$2 million per copy and a 5-foot acrylic sphere open up a whole bunch of options. I'd certainly take a ride if offered.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Wallace <jon.wallace at yahoo.com>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Mon, Dec 16, 2013 2:41 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch and vent
Location: Key Largo
I notice they had a much calmer sea then we did for Snoopy out on Pickle Reef.
They have a cover over the dome to block the sun prior to diving and I noticed a
huge difference in colors within the sub due to the blue ocean light. Look at
the VHF handheld radio in front of the pilot before diving and submerged. I'm
thinking maybe I'm going to want to change my electronic displays to blue
instead of red.
--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 12/16/13, jimtoddpsub at aol.com <jimtoddpsub at aol.com> wrote:
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch and vent
To: personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Date: Monday, December 16, 2013, 3:12 PM
All,
Gizmag had a good article on U-Boat
Worx' C-Explorer 2 sub. The link below is to a pic
of the hatch latch mechanism and some plumbing which I
presume includes the OP valve. Lots of other pics
there to scroll through as well. -Jim
http://www.gizmag.com/u-boat-worx-test-drive/28878/pictures#9
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