Re: Screw vs the Box

[Dick Morrisson <rmorrisson@unidial.com>]

Ginger,
You have a unique way of describing things but obviously have a great deal of
insight into real world functioning ideas (you are detail minded!).  We will get
along just fine!   :-)      You are not dumb!  and I don't have to qualify that
statement in the least.

I think I get the general picture of what you are describing and it sounds like
it would be do-able and fun!.  I happen to have the tools (and access to some
old bikes) to try it out as well, and I am intrigued enough to just maybe do
it!  Of course I might want to improve a few of the parts but thats just what
engineers do   ;-)    Maybe one of the pontoons described as up for sale in
earlier mail would make a good fairing for such a craft?  If not some plastic
rolled into half rounds makes a good outer skin.  I'll let this gel a bit and
get back to you.  Have fun on your vacation!
Dick

Ginger Robinson wrote:

> Dick Morrison,  I'm happy you liked my idea of the four "tails" in a box.
> Now if you're serious, and I think you are. Here was my idea for a portable
> wet sub for two.  And don't laugh at me.  OK?
>
> I take three old girl's bicycles from a junk store.  I use my dad's carbon
> saw and cut up the three bikes as follows.  Imagine a bicycle built for two
> (tandom) with very narrow handle bars for each rider and the back bar also
> works.  The seats are angled down in front and you weld two expanded metal
> (screens) at the frame near the bottom of the seat and slope it up a foot
> high near the handle bars so you both lie forward on a semi-upright angle so
> your neck isn't bent up to see forward.  All that is on the bottom is a
> metal or plastic skid like one sled runner that is 8 feet long and turned up
> in front.  Over your heads is like a front to rear rollbar is a big diameter
> PVC pipe that is about 3 feet over the level of the seats and is about four
> feet long with PVC angles at both ends with about 1 foot on each end with
> PVC caps on both ends.  The front two chain drives connect in the back to
> the third chain drive that has the pedals removed and two big stainless
> bolts and washers screwed into them about 2 inches long.  The rear chain
> drive (sprocket) is bigger than the little sprocket attached to the rear
> drive sprocket. (two chains).  Then you have copper water pipes cut into
> four 8 inch pieces and solder them into a square using 90 degree pieces and
> mount them with stainless "U" bolts with four 2" X 2" redwood railing wood
> about 3 feet long.  The four pieces of railing wood are attached to the rear
> bicycle frame to the best pieces of steel tubing that presents itself for
> strength and leverage.  You could use for pieces or copper pipe or PVC
> instead of redwood.  On the four 8 inch copper sides you take four pieces of
> two by four wood about a foot long and bolt two electrical conduit clamps
> around the copper sides and on to the ends of the 2 X 4 wood pieces like a
> loose hinged little door.  You then put two very long eyebolts through the 2
> X 4 pieces of wood close to where it meets the copper pipes.  The four 2 X
> 4's are pointed backwards with eyebolts bolted high on each side.  The
> driven sprocket still has the crank without the pedals and a bolt head and a
> big washer on each crank.  You then get plastic covered cables (8 of them)
> and 8 turn buckles and cable clamps and connect the cables to each (8)
> eyebolt eyes on the 2 X 4's to the big bolts in the driven pedal crank
> bolts.  You adjust the 2 X 4's to be straight back when the cranks are
> straight up and down.  So you then adjust the cables with the turn buckles
> so everything is very tight (like me).  You then taper the four 2X 4's at
> the ends and fit four big diver's fins on the 2 x 4's and strap them on
> tightly.  Take two pieces of white formica and cut them like a rudder and
> bolt the two pieces of formica to the front fork and then contact cement
> them together at the front, bottom and read and you have a streamlined front
> rudder.  As you pedal the "Sub Cycle" the crank arms go forward and the
> other one to the rear.  The cables pull one set of swim fins together as the
> other opposed swim fins are going outward for a continuous feel of power and
> you could also have the two drive cranks at 90 degrees so each person is
> always going to be on a power stroke with their legs.  The PVC "Roll Bar" is
> fitted with the over center pop valve like on my water heater and that lets
> air out of the big PVC pipe over our heads so you can dive.  The PVC pipe is
> big enough to keep up both at snorkle levels until we see a another great
> antique stove and go to your regulator and let air out and slowly dive.
> My dad can drill and tap a fittng in the PVC for one of those boat drain
> plugs with the rubber "one way" flat black rubber valves for the water to
> blow out of to surface with a few shots of scuba tank air.  There is nothing
> in front of us as we lay forward on the expanded metal body supports.  If I
> want a reverse, I'll have to use pulley and such with a belts using an old
> car's water pump for the bearings and a auto flex fan blade with a fan belt
> pulley to drive it.  I think if we want to stop, we just quit pedaling and
> sort of sit up and create drag.  We would just wear our scuba gear when
> diving and go on the surface using the snorkles to save air.  We'll use a
> bike "whippy flag" with the diver's down flag and have fun!  I know, I sound
> stupid?  I'm not a blond and redheads are not "DUM!"
> Bye, Ginger
>
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