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Re: HP, weight and visability



>Hello Everyone!
>
>This discussion group always intrigues me, but I have to admit that most of
>you are WAY ahead of me on design, materials, and skills.  No wonder I've
>settled on an ambient dry.  There's no way I could handle fabrication of a 1
>atm sub.  So those of you who dare, who have the skills for design and
>fabrication of a pressure hull, I tip my hat to you.
>
>Meanwhile, I'll satisfy myself by building a bubble... Much simpler.

I've found there is alot of info available at the fingertips! Even ambient dry can present challenges...
I remember that the group has created a few tools to aid in the design of p-subs. I have found a DOS depth calculator and used the calculations with a few other things to throw together a half decent Excel sheet. It uses measurements and a few other things to calculate depth and PSI (Roark and Flugge), Sq ft of steel used, hull weight with ballast tanks, weight left over for other stuff (batteries, motor, air tanks, etc.), cubic ft of air with ballast flooded or dry, lbs required for nuetral bouyancy in salt or fresh water, and also calculates if you flood the space between the hulls or not. It also gives you the option of how thick you want the inner and outer hull.  The depth calculations allow metal density, elasticity, support spacing, support thickness, and hull diam.

It does make a few assumptions for instance; a fore and aft cone, as well as a sail (part you get into and leave your head in when you drive). If you don't have these things on your sub just enter zeros. It's pretty good for what I needed and will supply it on request but will assume no liabilty on the thing. If you want it, it is only a guide. I'm using it though... :)

Just as an afterthought...  I think there has only been ONE successful dry ambient pressure p-sub built (Sport Sub). Be careful on your easy way out, it may be more difficult than you think!  :)

ttfn
Sean