I think you must have meant “print” in steel? I’m not really familiar with that, but printing for metals certainly does exist, although I’m not aware of a hobby level metals printer. I understand printing is already in use for high-value, low production run metallic parts like race car suspensions, aircraft wing components, etc. The other day I saw an article about a replacement jaw bone that was printed for someone. It was printed in titanium and then sprayed with some sort of plastic coating. There are big materials savings when you’re dealing with expensive metals such as titanium, because printing only uses the material that actually goes into the part (it uses titanium powder) as opposed to machining away lots of expensive scrap. The good news is that there are businesses sprouting up online that take your drawings and print them for you. When one of those outfits gets the capability to print metals, it might make economic sense for the hobbyist. But I’d expect their priority will be higher value metals and smaller objects, relative to what we typically deal with. From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Alan James
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2012 4:19 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Ready to print Is the technology out there to weld 3D models in steel? David, had dinner last week with an American based mathematician Vaughan Jones, who was holding a conferance down in N.Z. ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2012 9:47 AM Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Ready to print Thats the whole idea behind the reprap movement. Open source free software. The hardware is scalable and extremely hack able. Makerbot for example posts For a laser cutter to make the panels and case. You can download the eagle files for all of the control boards. Build an arduino clone and solder the boards yourself. You could print other parts. You could build a Makerbot or a reprap for very cheap- providing you have some access to some tools and have a few skills. I plan on building a much bigger machine once I get much more skilled. Heating the build platform becomes much harder, but certainly not impossible. Also, each month the resolution of the printers gets much better. Go big. "Life is good for two things, discovering mathematics and teaching mathematics" NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail may be confidential and is intended solely for the use of the named addressee. Access, copying or re-use of the e-mail or any information contained herein by any other person is not authorized. If you are not the intended recipient please notify us immediately by returning the e-mail to the originator You know what I’d be really interested in? Scaling it up! I have lying in the garage a set of rods and linear bearings, with a lead screw, that look like a four foot long big brother of the printer’s X axis. I can see putting exactly the same little extruder head on mega hardware and printing a bike frame or a kayak. Or for the sub, maybe a ballast tank or a deck. It would take an awful long time, for sure, but since the process is entirely automatic I really wouldn’t mind. The control electronics should be transferrable, except they would need to drive much beefier servos. You are right, and I thought about that as soon as I hit send. Knob and all of the other non-mission critical stuff can be made. There are programs out there- plugins and such for 3d programs that allow you to make all sorts of cool knobs. The neat thing is that you can customize that they say. I have not ton tons of research on PLA, but what i found through MSDS etc is that it all varies. There are so many manufacturing, extrusion and printing variances that it would be difficult to give an actaul lenght of time till it degrades. Trial and error is the only way. With water in the bay for example, there is, on a daily basis I am sure, differences in salinity, temperature, contaminants etc. I'm going to look up Slic3r when I get home. For those out there that are still kind of curious about this 3d thing, look up some videos on you-tube. Try searcing for Prusa, Makerbot, makergear, mendel. That will give you a great idea. But I warn you. You will be hooked. I was. Now I have a Makerbot, and I have ordered another for the school. I would like to build a Rep-rap variant soon. Also there is a really neat one about to hit the market called printerbot, which looks like it is going to be in the 500~ range. all of the printed parts and designs are posted on thingiverse. The idea behind most of these "robots" is that they can print themselves. On Mon, Feb 13, 2012 at 12:03 PM, Smyth, Alec <Alec.Smyth@compuware.com> wrote: EXCELLENT!!! The only thing I disagree with is the “don’t make anything for a sub” notion, as I would suggest it’s a part-by-part decision. There are innumerable knobs, brackets, instrument dashes, etc. that can be of ABS without their failure being life-threatening, and which in many cases are plastic already. How about printing a Kort nozzle, which is really hard to machine? One thing I would like to pass on is that I started using Skeinforge, but the number of quite incomprehensible parameters made it really hard. I’ve replaced it with “slicer” which has a tiny fraction of the parameters and is actually easy to use. I couldn’t recommend it highly enough, that one change was what got me from tearing my hair out to actually printing. It’s downloadable for free at http://slic3r.org. Just last night I started experimenting with “123D”, which is a free 3D drawing application from Autodesk. I’m very impressed so far, it seems a lot more powerful than I would have expected from a free app. I’m very interested in exploring PLA for addressing the issue of ghost traps in the Chesapeake, and have been poking around for data on how fast it degrades in water. Fishermen lose 20% of their traps each year, and these “ghost” traps continue fishing for many years unattended, until they eventually corrode. They catch some poor creature that becomes the bait for the next one, and the chain just continues. It should be possible to cut a little square window in traps, and cover it with a PLA grid that’s tie-wrapped to the edges of the hole. Print the PLA mesh to match the mesh of the trap so there’s no functional difference. Calibrate the thickness of the PLA wires so it will dissolve after X months in the bay. Do you happen to have any data on how quickly the PLA degrades? All I have found is for composting conditions, and a statement that it eventually dissolves if freely floating in water, but no data on the rate at which that would happen. Thanks,
Alec
Error! Filename not specified. The contents of this e-mail are intended for the named addressee only. It contains information that may be confidential. Unless you are the named addressee or an authorized designee, you may not copy or use it, or disclose it to anyone else. If you received it in error please notify us immediately and then destroy it. Alec, I'm gladto see that I am not the only person embarking on this 3D printer thing. I just built a MakerBot Thing-O-Matic (makerbot.com), and am having a ball. Still tweaking some of the setting in skienforge, but will have it in tip-top shape in no time. I am actually planning on using it in my classroom here in Baltimore City (7th grade math) I am a newb as well, but being on the bleeding edge of technology is not always easy. A few things, after reading the other posts and questions here. I think, for the PSubs folks, and really anyone who will be making parts that your lives my depend on, I do not think that I would trust ABS. Nothing on the sub is- or should be made out of lego, Besides, there are plenty of opportunities out there for mistakes in the printing to be made and parts to delaminate. Definately dont make stuff for the water out of PLA. It breaks down, The real advantage is in proof of concept. The ABS/PLA is cheap. you can design anything you want, print it, and bolt it to your sub, or your car or bike or head, or whatever. if it works, you can then invest your time into welding a part, or sending it to someone like shapeways- who cna then make the part out of metal. It really allows you to look at your actual design, not just what you think you drew. If it works get it made, or edit the drawing. A few things to think of: you have to draw something in 3D. To many that is pretty daunting. Solidworks and Autocad have a steep learnign curve. A progam that I have been using with my kids is called Tinkercad (tinkercad.com i believe). It is a web/browser based, easy to use 3d program. It does not have all the bells and whistles, but it is free, and a much easier learnign curve. Remember, I have a group of 7th graders using it now. they can design someting, and when its working right, hit print and actually make it. There is another website that I like called Thingiverse, where people post the things that they design as .stl files, and they share theme with the world. Granted, there is a lot of sillness going on too, but a lot of the stuff is really helpful. there is also a great community of people out there trying to learn how to use these things, so there is a lot of help. dmb-- "Life is good for two things, discovering mathematics and teaching mathematics" NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail may be confidential and is intended solely for the use of the named addressee. Access, copying or re-use of the e-mail or any information contained herein by any other person is not authorized. If you are not the intended recipient please notify us immediately by returning the e-mail to the originator
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"Life is good for two things, discovering mathematics and teaching mathematics" NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail may be confidential and is intended solely for the use of the named addressee. Access, copying or re-use of the e-mail or any information contained herein by any other person is not authorized. If you are not the intended recipient please notify us immediately by returning the e-mail to the originator
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