If it's so well sealed that it can't be modified
what about a 12V outdoor floodlight?
They would have a degree of weather resistance
& may be suitable for oil compensation.
This one is only $24- probably half the lumens of
your light & not so costly to experiment with.
Regards Alan
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 3:18
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] SeaBlaze3
LED bench test
Possibly but the anadized case is sealed so it would be hard to
drill and tap without knowing where the internal electronics are
located.
Hi Cliff, Maybe you could fill it with mineral
oil. Fast turn around on your video !
Brian
On Mon, Jan 16, 2012 at 4:54 PM, Cliff
Redus <cliffordredus@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:
Psub postings have been a bit slow so I have decided to
post a short test I did today on an off the shelf LED light.
Subsea lights are very expensive for psub
applications so I was looking to see what kind of depth performance I could
get with an off-the-shelf LED marine light for pleasure boats.
I chose to test the Lumitec
SeaBlaze3. See the YouTube clip
of the test at http://youtu.be/WXYPjIgoxLE .
Prior to the test, I took it to swimming pool to see how it worked at night.
The light worked great and very bright. You could see
across a an Olympic sized swimming pool without any problem with just one of
these lights. The application I am contemplating would
use seven of these lights working off 24 VDC.
The lights will work on 10-30 VDC.
For 24 VDC, they pull 1.1 amps.
To conduct the test, I built a pressure chamber
out of 4 inch, schedule 40 galvanized pipe fittings. I then made up a simple
electrical penetrator using a ¾ inch pipe fitting, nails and
some two-part epoxy. To pressurize the test chamber, I
used my pressure washer with a bypass valve. To determine
when the unit failed, I connected the light through the DC current section
of my multimeter. Because the line pressure for my house
during the test was 74 psig, this is the minimum pressure point
for the test.
Results were that the LED light worked fine for about 4
minutes at 74 psig or 167 fsw.
At that point, the case flooded. The application I
am looking at has a 500 fsw design depth with a max test depth
of 625 fsw. Therefore out of the box these
would not work but it would be straight forward to pull the
electronics and LEDS and insert them in a custom
1-atm shell. This lights was $220.
The reason I thought this had a chance of handling the pressure
was because the case is anodized
aluminum and the lens is glass. The LED face plate
was in contact with the lens so structurally it
was being supported. My guess is that they must have used some kind of
adhesive to seal the lens rather than an
o-ring. My next step is to tear the fixture apart and see if the
electronics and LED could be repackaged for pressure.
Cliff
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