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Jon,
Glad to hear it worked out. I thought the snow storm might have
brought a halt to your efforts not to mention electricity and heat.
For us southern boys a log chain is the third leg of the triad, the first
two being WD-40 and duct tape.
I just took a look at your aft motor photos and comments. Thanks for
the documentation; it makes a very helpful reference manual even for different
designs.
Jim
In a message dated 11/2/2011 10:09:15 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
jonw@psubs.org writes:
Today I was able to remove the big 3hp aft motor. It was
very stubborn
but finally gave up the fight after 3-4 applications of
penetrating oil
over the same number of days and lots of persuasion.
In lieu of a chain
wrench which I could not find locally, Jim Todd
suggested that wrapping
a chain around the kort nozzle vanes would
distribute the torque needed
to twist the tank head and act like a chain
wrench if I could get enough
leverage.
So I took the 5/16 inch
safety chains off the trailer and used them for
the job. After
wrapping the chain around the kort nozzle support vanes,
I was able to get
one link of the chain between the claw of a crowbar
and use the crowbar as
my leverage. It was a little tricky to get the
crowbar into a
position where it wouldn't slip off the tank head, but I
eventually was
able to do so and the claw became the fulcrum giving me
about 30 inches of
leverage. I have to say it was a little bit
intimidating looking at
the claw while I was heaving on the other end of
the crowbar and wondering
if I was going to end up putting it through my
forehead if it slipped off,
however it worked really well and the chain
lodged so well inside the claw
that I had to use a hammer to extract
it. Having some extra weight
onboard (I mean on me) was beneficial in
this case and came in handy to
get the tank head to finally move.
The o-ring on the edge of the tank
head that creates the seal really
causes a lot of drag and I have to say
that although this is a clean
looking design I'm really not happy with the
effort required to remove
the tank head to get access to the motor
inside. By comparison, the
battery pod tank heads pop off easily
because they do not have to be
twisted to be removed. This is where
Harold Maynards modification on
Lake Diver excels even though it's not as
pretty with the external bolts
holding the tank heads in
place.
With the tank head removed, the rest of the extraction was
easy. Of the
four flat head screws holding the backing plate in
place, only one
required the impact driver which easily loosened it (love
that tool).
The only other thing of note was that hex head machine
screws attach the
electric motor to the backing plate instead of the round
heads that are
used on the smaller fore motors. Pulling the electric
motor out was
easy although it's a very tight fit against the dog-ears and
needs to be
pulled out straight or it will hang up.
The electric
motor is a monster weighing in at 51 pounds. It is 36vdc,
2600rpm,
3hp, and draws a maximum of 73 amps!!! I tested it with 12vdc
from
my car and it worked in both forward and reverse.
Photos at
http://www.psubs.org/projects/1234567801/k-600aftmotor/
Jon
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