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Good morning, Alan,
I agree that avoiding the application of heat to free up a fastener is
desirable unless you're restoring the part anyway. That's why I'll avoid
Loctite Red unless it's really necessary (since it requires heat to dislodge)
and stick with Loctite Blue. Lock washers of various types as well as
double nuts have their places as well.
I'm absolutely rabid about corrosion prevention and how that affects
design, materials choices, connectors, sealants, operations, and
maintenance. That applies to both interior and exterior. Lots to
learn, lots to learn...
At the same time I want to be able to easily remove or disassemble any
component and be able to re-install and reseal it without it being a pain in the
butt to do so.
There are other companies who make products similar to the Loctite
brand (permatex.com for instance). I'd like to hear positives and
negatives from those who have used any of the products.
Cheers,
Jim
In a message dated 10/27/2011 2:08:32 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
alanjames@xtra.co.nz writes:
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the links, had a look at a few of them.
Came across this short one,
A loctite product called "Freeze & release" for freezing your nuts so
they come off their bolts.
they advocate this method as apposed to sticking a blow torch on
them.
Alan
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 6:58
PM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Loctite
Jon,
You brought up a good point in your last sentence below regarding
Loctite. Since that brand name covers a number of different products,
we could all benefit from learning about the threadlockers, thread sealants,
other sealants, and other products for rust and corrosion prevention,
etc. during assembly. We might consider asking a tech rep to
speak at our next convention.
I know they make varying strengths of threadlockers depending on
how resistant to disassembly you want a threaded fastener to be, but
I'm not really familiar with the thread sealants and other products and the
appropriate applications.
Here's are a couple of YouTube videos I pulled up.
Thanks,
Jim
In a message dated 10/26/2011 7:48:20 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
jonw@psubs.org writes:
Thanks to everyone for the good advice. I went out
tonight armed with a
propane torch (the kind used to solder copper
pipe) and used it on the
flat head screws holding the motor in the
port thruster housing. It was
fairly chilly tonight at 45F and
the heat worked great. I applied heat
to each screw for about 30
seconds and the screws came out with ease.
No impact driver,
just a good large hefty screwdriver that I finally
found after a
thorough search of the cellar (I knew it was there somewhere).
The
electrical motor is sealed in its own metal housing and looks great,
so I'm optimistic that internally it is in good enough condition to
operate. All I need is three of you guys to show up in my
driveway so
we can combine your car batteries into a 36v power
source. :) Is this
the first time that motor has
been out of that housing in 32 years??
Could be.
I was
surprised to see that there was no support for the motor in the
fore
part of the housing. The mounting plate that attaches to the dog
ears welded inside the housing is the only means of support for the
motor which weighs in at 25 pounds. The four round head screws
that
hold the motor to the mounting plate were snug, but by no means
tight.
I didn't need any heat to unscrew them. Maybe
locktite on those when I
reinstall the motor?
Photos added
at:
http://www.psubs.org/projects/1234567801/k600portfwdmotor/
Jon
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