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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Paint.....Cheap or Proper?
We use international Paints 2 part epoxy on the big boat and there is an
incredible difference but the prep is the most important part of paint
sandblast whenever possible and if you can't make sure you treat the rust
with acid we use Ossfo not sure if the spelling is correct but it turns the
rust so you can paint
Regards
Brian V. Ryder
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-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of
MerlinSub@t-online.de
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 11:05 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Paint.....Cheap or Proper?
Commercial ships use the way Vance describe.
First sandblasting, than zinx 98%-epoxy, than thick watertight 2k epoxy,
than Polyurethane to make a nice and sun tight surface. All this paints are
expensive - but there must be a reason that ships designed to MAKE money use
it... ;-)
KSS Eurosub and the Euronaut goes the same way. Euronaut gets his paint some
8 years ago, still standing outside - no rust - not outside - not inside..
Yes I think there is a reason that the stuff is such expensive..
By the way only the small boxes are really expensive, special the one for
sport boat using.. May ask a bigger yard/bridge building whatever company
for remains..
But important as the paint ist the paint concept! How many layers, of which
stuff, in which thickness, and in which time windows.
vbr Carsten
<vbra676539@aol.com> schrieb:
>
> Jim and all,
>
> I agree about the use of best available coatings. On the exterior of Gamma
and my K-350, I use a zinc coat on bare steel, hi-build epoxy over that as a
strenghtening component and tie coat, and then polyurethane over that as the
final coat. The polyurethane is able to take a harder whack without
fracturing and doesn't chalk in the Florida sun. The combination is getting
on toward bulletproof.
>
> If you want to do it up really well, there are Dimetcote vinyls available.
Those are milspec Navy coatings. Expensive. $600+ per gallon, but it is
really good stuff, as you might imagine. We used it by the truckload at
Perry. But paint technology has advanced since then, so I don't know what
the very best is these days.
>
> There are less expensive and labor intensive methods for the interior,
however. Gamma's ABS specs for interior coatings call for Rustoleum over
zinc, and that works very well. Nine years in storage and the coating only
has a very few pinhole issues to show for it. That isn't a guess. I'm
looking at it right now.
>
> The zinc undercoat is critical. After that, you want something that seals.
That sounds patently obvious, but keep in mind that this stuff is slathered
onto a pressure vessel that flexes under pressure, and works in a hostile
environment. You skimp on it at your peril.
>
> Vance
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JimToddPsub <JimToddPsub@aol.com>
> To: personal_submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> Sent: Mon, Mar 21, 2011 10:30 am
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Paint.....Cheap or Proper?
>
>
> The last time I worked extensively with coatings was 1983. We were using
two-part polyurethanes that cost $250 USD per gallon at that time. Epoxies
were considered older technologies that were becoming obsolete, however I
think the term "epoxy" is being used generically to denote any type of
two-part coating (color and catalyst or hardener).
>
> This is one of the last places I would try to save money, and I would
spend just as much on interior primers and coatings as exterior for two
reasons:
> 1. Preventing corrosion is a lot better than trying to cure it, and
having to do that (and redo) the inside the sub can be a bear.
> 2. After an operation, I can wash down the exterior with fresh water and
whatever else I chose to use. That's not an option with the interior.
>
> I've also wondered about spraying the entire exterior with a wax several
hours prior to a mission but haven't investigated that. Seems reasonable.
>
> Jim
>
>
> In a message dated 3/21/2011 8:15:34 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
Alec.Smyth@compuware.com writes:
>
> The first time I sandblasted and painted Snoopy, I put lots of coats of
expensive epoxy on the outside, but had this same exact thought about the
inside. That surely won't get wet, therefore cheap and ordinary paint should
do! Well, when Snoopy was in Florida the humidity was 100%, the temperature
was something ridiculous, and climbing in and out even splashed a little
salt water inside. With the combination of those three factors, when I was
being towed out to a dive site the inside rusted so fast I could actually
see the rust move. I mean that literally, you could see it popping up from
under the paint, rather like a paper towel that has been laid over a counter
that's sprinkled with water.
>
> I still don't use as expensive a paint on the inside as the outside, but
one paint I've found is economical yet tough is a two part epoxy for
painting garage floors. It's very thick, giving really good coverage, and
resistant to abrasion. The downside is there aren't any rust preventers in
it because it's intended for concrete, so you want to spray a base for
metals underneath.
>
>
> Best,
>
> Alec
>
>
>
> The contents of this e-mail are intended for the named addressee only. It
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>
> From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of James
> Frankland
> Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 6:06 AM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Paint.....Cheap or Proper?
>
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Im going to paint the inside of my battery pods today. As theoretically,
the insides should not get wet, i was thinking of using just a normal metal
paint like Hammerite or something. A straight forward paint that you would
use to paint outdoor railings and things with. Do you think this will be ok
or should i go for the "proper" 2 part epoxy marine primer? Its just really
expensive.
>
> What do you think?
>
> Thanks
> James
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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