From: Sean T. Stevenson <cast55@telus.net>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Wed, March 16, 2011 10:29:39 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Humidity control
Was this a shop test or a submerged test? Did you measure the external
air/water temperature?
I presume that your pressure hull is not insulated, and that the air
circulation was limited enough to permit the 85% RH air in the vessel to sit
against the hull and cool, driving local RH in that boundary layer to 100% and
condensing water on the hull, so that the steady-state condensation rate was
equal to your respiratory water production rate. As long as the consequences
of condensation in any 100% RH region are immaterial, then this may indeed
not
matter; however, the amount of liquid water present will in that case relate
directly to dive duration, and you need to be wary of allowing the sub to "air
out" sufficiently after a dive to dry the surfaces where condensation was
taking place to prevent any corrosion. Where this might be a problem is in
uninsulated obscured spaces where air is poorly circulated (behind control
panels etc.). Even if you don't implement any active air conditioning, I
wonder if it would be worth the effort to insulate the hull to some extent in
all areas except for a designated region for condensation, or alternatively,
to control airflow such that circulation only slows in a designated area?
-Sean
On Wednesday 16 March 2011 12:38:45 you wrote:
> Sean, I also think this is true also. I have a relative humidly sensor in
> my boat. When I did an 8 hour test in my boat in which I
do not have any
> RH control, at the time the hatch was closed, the RH was 50%. After
> about one hour, the RH climbed to around 80%. Over the next 3 hours, the
> RH climbed to 85% and stayed at this level for the duration of the test.
> This leads me to believe that the primary source of condensed water vapor
> in the boat is due to exhalation of 100% RH air. I think that purging the
> pressure hull with dry air prior to hatch closing would bring down the
> initial RH to near zero but quickly for a small psubs like mine, it would
> climb rapidly. As the chemical reaction in the scrubber needs water vapor
> to work, this concept would seem to me to be counter effective to scrubber
> operations.
>
>
> In the spirit of KISS, I am not sure it makes sense to try and condition
> the air to regulate RH anyway.
>
> Cliff
>
>
>
> Cliff Redus
> Redus Engineering
> USA Office: 830-663-6445
> USA mobile: 830-931-1280
>
cliffordredus@sbcglobal.com>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Sean T. Stevenson <
cast55@telus.net>
> To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org> Sent: Wed, March 16, 2011 8:08:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Humidity control
>
> I would think that, with the possible exception of very short dives, in a
> small space (PSub size) the moisture present in the surface air that gets
> enclosed in the vessel is less significant than the moisture introduced
by
> the occupants breath over the course of a dive?
>
> -Sean
>
> On Tuesday 15 March 2011 23:00:13 you wrote:
> > We should probably write a white paper on this sometime since it seems
> > to come up once or twice every year. I always find condensation easier
> > to understand in terms of dew point. Simply put, and in all cases, if
> > the temperature falls at or below the dew point, you're going to have
> > condensation. You can also get a sense of the relative humidity by
> > comparing the current temperature against the dew point. If the air
> > temp is 80F and the dew point is 70F then you've got high humidity and a
> > sticky humid day on your hands. If the air temp is 80F and the dew
> > point is 45F then you have low humidity and a nice dry day on your hands.
> >
> > The problem starts
at the surface when the air in your submarine is
> > filled with the atmospheric conditions of whatever the current day is
> > like. Now consider that when a sub is in water the cabin air is
> > eventually going to reach equilibrium with the water temperature. If
> > the water temperature is at or below the dew point of the atmospheric
> > air, you can expect to have condensation issues as the air temperature
> > in the sub begins to drop due to water conducting heat from the cabin
> > through the hull.
> >
> > In a high humidity situation (warm humid day, cool water temps), I think
> > there's a simple and cheap solution that might go a long way to
> > controlling condensation during the dive. By emptying the air from an
> > 80 cubic foot scuba tank into the submarine cabin just prior to closing
> > the hatch, the dry
air from the tank should displace enough of the humid
> > air in the cabin to considerably lower the dew point inside the cabin
> > and reduce the chance of condensation. This should be easy enough to
> > test without the sub even in the water by simply waiting for a humid day
> > and monitoring the relative humidity in the sub before and after the air
> > from the scuba tank fills the submarine.
> >
> > For warm climates such as Florida, if you have room for the small
> > "cooler" air conditioner that David Bartsch was working on last year, I
> > think that could be an ideal solution for not only controlling heat in
> > the cabin but also the humidity.
> >
> > Calcium Chloride is cheap and easily available, and is suppose to act as
> > a desiccant although I've never tried it. The southern boys out there
> >
probably don't know about this stuff, but us northern boys usually have
> > plenty of it on hand for melting snow and ice in the winter.
> >
> > Jon
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