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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Humidity control



Cliff,
 
When you have time, could you share more regarding that experiment?  Perhaps when the starting point for RH is 50%, injecting dry air wouldn't be worth the effort.  What are your thoughts regarding that practice when you're starting out with 80%+ RH?  I would think that RH would be rather common is southern US coastal waters.
 
My experience is rather limited, but I noticed on the coast at Ft. Pierce that it was very humid and hot on the surface.  When submerged below 20 feet for a while I expect the temp in the sub might drop, but even at a steady amount of water vapor in the air, that would have resulted in a rise in RH even with the dew point remaining the same.  Of course the water vapor would not remain steady because three bodies (in that case) were breathing and perspiring profusely.  We weren't down long enough or deep enough to achieve any significant cooling from the ambient water temp.
 
Thanks,
Jim
 
In a message dated 3/16/2011 2:39:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time, cliffordredus@sbcglobal.net writes:
Sean, I also think this is true also.  I have a relative humidly sensor in my boat.  When I did an 8 hour test in my boat in which I do not have any RH control,  at the time the hatch was closed, the RH was 50%.  After about one hour, the RH climbed to around 80%.   Over the next 3 hours, the RH climbed to 85% and stayed at this level for the duration of the test.  This leads me to believe that the primary source of condensed water vapor in the boat is due to exhalation of 100% RH air.  I think that purging the pressure hull with dry air prior to hatch closing would bring down the initial RH to near zero but quickly for a small psubs like mine, it would climb rapidly.  As the chemical reaction in the scrubber needs water vapor to work, this concept would seem to me to be counter effective to scrubber operations. 
 
In the spirit of KISS, I am not sure it makes sense to try and condition the air to regulate RH anyway.
 
Cliff


Cliff Redus
Redus Engineering
USA Office: 830-663-6445
USA mobile: 830-931-1280
cliffordredus@sbcglobal.com



From: Sean T. Stevenson <cast55@telus.net>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Wed, March 16, 2011 8:08:26 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Humidity control

I would think that, with the possible exception of very short dives, in a
small space (PSub size) the moisture present in the surface air that gets
enclosed in the vessel is less significant than the moisture introduced by the
occupants breath over the course of a dive?

-Sean


On Tuesday 15 March 2011 23:00:13 you wrote:
> We should probably write a white paper on this sometime since it seems
> to come up once or twice every year.  I always find condensation easier
> to understand in terms of dew point.  Simply put, and in all cases, if
> the temperature falls at or below the dew point, you're going to have
> condensation.  You can also get a sense of the relative humidity by
> comparing the current temperature against the dew point.  If the air
> temp is 80F and the dew point is 70F then you've got high humidity and a
> sticky humid day on your hands.  If the air temp is 80F and the dew
> point is 45F then you have low humidity and a nice dry day on your hands.
>
> The problem starts at the surface when the air in your submarine is
> filled with the atmospheric conditions of whatever the current day is
> like.  Now consider that when a sub is in water the cabin air is
> eventually going to reach equilibrium with the water temperature.  If
> the water temperature is at or below the dew point of the atmospheric
> air, you can expect to have condensation issues as the air temperature
> in the sub begins to drop due to water conducting heat from the cabin
> through the hull.
>
> In a high humidity situation (warm humid day, cool water temps), I think
> there's a simple and cheap solution that might go a long way to
> controlling condensation during the dive.  By emptying the air from an
> 80 cubic foot scuba tank into the submarine cabin just prior to closing
> the hatch, the dry air from the tank should displace enough of the humid
> air in the cabin to considerably lower the dew point inside the cabin
> and reduce the chance of condensation.  This should be easy enough to
> test without the sub even in the water by simply waiting for a humid day
> and monitoring the relative humidity in the sub before and after the air
> from the scuba tank fills the submarine.
>
> For warm climates such as Florida, if you have room for the small
> "cooler" air conditioner that David Bartsch was working on last year, I
> think that could be an ideal solution for not only controlling heat in
> the cabin but also the humidity.
>
> Calcium Chloride is cheap and easily available, and is suppose to act as
> a desiccant although I've never tried it.  The southern boys out there
> probably don't know about this stuff, but us northern boys usually have
> plenty of it on hand for melting snow and ice in the winter.
>
> Jon



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