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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Barometers



I like the idea of a christmas tree display...even if only a single light.
 
David Bartsch
 
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Barometers
> From: MerlinSub@t-online.de
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 22:59:00 +0000
>
> Cliff, you have a alarm for "hatch open" during diving in this small sub???
>
> That is something I have not. Just high level water alarm in the bilge.
> Works also fine as indirect "hatch is still open" indicator..
> But the full automatic hatch shower is also a good indicator..
>
> smile..
>
> vbr Carsten -by the way many subs sunk because a hatch was still open or not real close-
>
>
> "Cliff Redus" <cliffordredus@sbcglobal.net> schrieb:
> > Like Sg. Peppers, the R300 is a small boat.  In early years I to had some pesky
> O2 and air leaks which I eventully sorted out.  Initially I tried to control my
> O2 makeup valve using the measured cabin pressure with a barometer (700 to 1100
> mBar).  I found this quite problematic.  I changed to controlling off the O2
> concentration measurement rather than cabin pressure.  This worked a lot better
> for me.  When the O2 level drops below 18% the PLC opened the O2 makeup solenoid
> valve until the O2 concentration reaches 23% then it cuts off.  It takes about 1
> minute for the O2 makeup value to cycle from closed to open to closed. In
> additon to the automatic O2 makeup system, I have a backup manual metering
> needle valve with a simple direct reading medical flow rate gage.  I added a
> cabin pressure gage that is 0-30 psia that I use to trigger overpressure
> alarms.   I had this alarm sound on one dive when a hair line crack developed in
> O2 regulator high pressure fitting.  The high O2 alarm also went off.  At that
> point I surfaced the boat.  After blowing my MBTs, I began relasing my hatch
> latches.  After releasing the first one, the other released poping the
> hatch open to releave the 5 psi overpressure in the boat.  This sudden release
> of cabin air was enough to unseat my hatch o-ring. I was very nervous for about
> a minute until I reseated this o-ring as I could not close the hatch and my
> freeboard is quite small.   Needles to say, my diving was over for the day and I
> did not dive the boat again until I found and fixed the source for the high
> pressure leak and installed a hull equlization valve for the hatch.  I also have
> a high CO2 alarm which triggers when the CO2 partical pressure exceeds 5000ppm
> (0.5%). This happens when the CO2 absorbent becomes saturated. Normal air has
> about 300 ppm of CO2.  I did quite a few 4-8 hour "garage" dives to make sure
> the environmental controls were working and to sort out the CO2 scrubber fan
> size. Acturally they are a lot of fun but a bit boring. Garage dives are a great
> way to debug systems.  The 15 alarms on the R300 are:
>
> High Oxygen Level, > 23%
> Low Oxygen Level, < 18%
> High CO2 Level, > 5000ppm
> Hatch Open on Dive
> High Main Current, > 300 Amps
> High Aux Current, >20 Amps
> Low pressure in Air Tank, <750 psia
> Low pressure in O2 Tank, < 550 psia
> Depth Exceeds 300 ft
> Low Cabin pressure , < 12 psia
> High Cabin pressure , > 20 psia
> Motor field winding > 248 F
> Seal Barrier Fluid Outlet Temp >200 F
> Low Main Battery Voltage, <110Vdc
> Low Aux Battery Voltage, <22Vdc
>
> Cliff
>
>
>
>
>
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