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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] milestone
Marc,
I don't think there is any debate (kind of like global warming) about
the sharp sand vs round, but if you don't have access to the sharp then you
would just have to go with what you have available.
The ribs are 5/16" mild steel and you can see mine on my site. Also it's
helpful to rap the rips with the layered mesh right at the begining because
they are hard to do later.
http://www.ojaivalleybeefarm.com/Brian's%20Sub/My%20Sub/Submarine.htm
Thanks for the interest !
Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org]On Behalf Of F. Marc de
Piolenc
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 12:49 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] milestone
Brian Cox wrote:
> Well if you must know... I guess I can take time out of my busy day. You
> know I don't like going on and on about my sub. ( just tell me to shut up
if
> you've had enough)
No, no - loquacious is good in my book. I've been interested in FC and
concrete boats since my early teens, but have yet to actually build
anything. When I do build something, I want it to come out right, so I
collect as much info as I can from people who've done it successfully.
> 8 total layers of 22 gauge galvanized hex netting. The hex netting is the
1
> inch aviary netting. That is 4 layers on each side of the rebar or the
> internal armature. I basically followed the same proceedure as how one
> would build a ferro-cement sailboat. Since the shape that I built was
> relitively small (21 ft long), and only 8 ft wide at the widest point I
> probably could have gotten away with not using ribs inside but I figured
> since there was going to be some unique stresses on this thing I went
ahead
> and built just like you would a sailboat. I even spaced the ribs closer
for
> additional strenght (18" OC).
>
> I have some pics of my early construction on my web site.
I'll go look. I'm especially interested in how you formed the ribs.
> Anyway, using the ribs is better anyway because it gives you a framework
to
> tie on the stringers. The stringers are 1/4 inch hard drawn wire - it has
a
> spring to it so you can bend it to make a nice curve. Those go on at about
> 3" apart. They get tied on with wire ties. Then you have diagonals, which
> are 1/8" hard drawn wire which go on - you guessed it - diagonal to the
> stringers, this is so that any irregularities in the shape tend to get
> smoothed out, so you have clean lines. Once all that is all wired on then
> you're ready to put on the netting. - with millions of more wire ties -
can
> you say carple tunnel syndrome !
>
> Once everything is hunky dory and all the mesh is nice and tight you are
> ready to plaster ! I used a mix of 1 part sulphate resistant cement (most
> all cement is) to 2 parts sand. You can't just use any old sand. You
need
> to look for jagged shaped sand, you don't want to use round river sand.
The
> reason is that you want it to key together really good. I talked to a
> concrete expert and he clued me into this sand over in Soladad Canyon
where
> it is blasted out of a rock quarry and ground up into sand. The other
thing
> is you also want an gradation of sizes of sand particals, not just all one
> size. The specs that I got on the make up of the sand from Solidad canyon
> was practially a text book perfect sand that I needed. You want to try
and
> hold the thickness to around 1 inch.
So you're on the "sharp sand" side of the argument. Others argue that
washed and graded round sand gives equally good strength on cure and is
much more workable when applied.
> I hired some plasterers on the first round and let them do their thing, I
> was very nervious because I was very concerned about the water content and
> getting the mix right. But I just let them go because there is the
practcal
> side of it also, ideally you want a low water content but it's very hard
to
> get the penitration into the mesh if the plaster is too hard to work with.
> So you may have to sacrifice a few thousand psi strenght factor but you
are
> getting better penetration and ultimately a better finished product. The
> top part of the clamshell I did myself with some extra help and everything
> went well.
There are additives that are intended to improve workability and allow a
low slump mix to be used. Fine silica (pozzolan) seems to both improve
the strength of the final product and make it more workable, but there
are also a bunch of commercial products intended only to make a
low-water mix workable. I think sodium stearate is one..? Anyway, you
didn't use any of that, I take it.
Thanks for taking the time to lay this out.
Best,
Marc
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