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Paul and others, I am no welder either. I went the route of a
professional certified
pressure vessel welder. Seems only logical.
I would like to add one point. My confidence was very high of this
mans ability, but
I still had it X-rayed. Past with only one small flaw in a fill
pass.
This was a small price to pay for a little piece of
mind.
Dean
In a message dated 1/6/2010 6:42:07 P.M. Central Standard Time,
landnsea1@hawaiiantel.net writes:
Hi
Paul,
I think your wise to let a good pipe welder do the critical welds
if you are
not a competent welder. Also do your homework on who you use.
Ask to see
some work he/she has done if that is possible or better yet,
tack a couple
of coupons together with the proper bevel and root gap and
have him/her weld
them out. Usually but not always, if it looks good, it
is probably clean on
the inside but you can still have mechanicals done on
there weld for more
piece of mind.
I know this is a hassle and can be a
bit expensive but I own a welding
company and I can't tell you how many
people have come threw my doors saying
they are god's gift to welding only
to find out later that they were so so.
Certs also can be faked so call
the company that did it to be sure. I know I
may sound paranoid but it's
your fanny that will be inside, not the guy who
welded it. As for non
essential welding on the boat, clips ect. you would
probably be fine
though I've seen mig welds that looked beautiful to the eye
but had a lack
of adhesion on one or both sides of what they were welding
due to improper
heat or surface contamination. I am old school and use stick
or tig
whenever I can.
I used to weld pipe for the oil companies on the bottom of
the ocean in a
little dry room and the procedure we used was, Set root gap
at 3/16" with
proper sized lands using an 1/8" tig rod with a 22.5 bevel
on each side.The
root pass (1st one) was tig, the hot pass (second one)
was tig, next pass
was 3/32" stick lo hi, and the fill and cap were 1/8"
stick lo hi. all rods
were kept in a heated rod box due to the helium and
moisture environment but
it's still good to use a heated rod box when
using lo hi which merely means
low moister content and keeping them warm
will do that for you.
Good luck
Rick P.
-----
Original Message -----
From: "Paul Lassen"
<lassen@rosebud.ca>
To:
<personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010
6:08 PM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Thanks to all and another
question
Thanks to all who responded to my concerns about quality
welds, visibility
and design choice. Looks like its best to let a pressure
welder do the
pressure welds, (go figure). Now it looks like the Eurosub
might also be a
possible candidate.
So my question now is, if a guy
needed to take a welding course for all the
remaining welding work on a
PSUB, which would be of more benefit, stick or
MIG?
Paul
Lassen
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