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In a message dated 10/25/2009 12:13:55 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
jonw@psubs.org writes:
of instability and I suspect those will ultimately prove effective. I'm Hi Jon. Ya, don't jump in yet. I'm hoping to create some converts to the
saucer shape. Take a ride in mine before you commit to steel.
To Vance.....
Your extensive experience makes me listen very closely to your thoughts and
suggestions.
The idea of getting your face "up close" is what subbing is all about. The
dive I made in the Aquarius was a blast and really brought home the whole "in
your face" aspect of windows.
My own design has some limitations with visibility. I made a trade off
between having a big dome up front and being able to tow at high speed. Although
there aren't any blind spots, I have to look through different windows to see it
all.
I can visualize your short/stubby hull with a big dome up front and if the
hull diameter is large enough, I bet it will feel very much like my saucer
shape. I considered replacing my 20 inch window with a larger one and maybe on
the next one I'll go that way.
To Jay......
The planing (sp?) aspect of my sub isn't something I've talked
about much, so let me explain it here.
As I've said, I wanted my sub to tow quickly and safely for long travels
offshore. To accomplish this the front end is pointed like a boat, and the front
ballast tank has several dimensional forms similar to a ski boat hull.
The main window is 24 inch OD.
That makes a huge obstruction to towing so to counteract that, I have an
acrylic sheet 1 inch thick that attaches to the bottom of the ballast tank/tube
steel frame in the front. The area between this plexi and the window is free
flooding but will allow the front to plane across the surface. This
configuration was tested with my models in the lap pool and it seemed to work
well. I hope the 1 inch is thick enough.
I'm also hoping that bubbles won't cause me grief when I submerge.
As I was telling Vance, the front ballast tank does restrict my vision
through the front window. It's like a tunnel in some respects. The 1 inch plexi
cover is basically a triangle from the tip of the nose down to the bottom of the
round window. It adds impact protection for any debris that may be encountered
while towing and sheds water to the sides as the boat is towed. It's
attached to the front structural steel so any impacts are absorbed by the frame
without impacting the ballast tank.
The front ballast tank is sharply pointed, and has "flutes" along the sides
to channel the water along the sides. The area where the front fairing meets the
ballast tank has a "flare out" rib to deflect water out and down as it
travels through the water, and the fairing has another "flare" along the side to
act as another flute to shed water out and down. It also acts as a bumper when
docked or maneuvering near objects.
It probably sounds complicated but I think you'll get a better
understanding of my thoughts when you see it.
I'll try to get some more pics up so the flow design is more
apparent.
Frank D.
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