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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] No Machining Hatch Sealing Concept



The reason an O ring seals so well is that, so long as there is an initial seal, increasing pressure expands the width of the O ring thus increasing it's sealing ability. In other words, the higher the pressure the better it seals. In this case the two SS rings that sit on the Sikaflex won't expand. The Sikaflex seat will deform under pressure, but in the opposite way you want it to. Pressure will tend to expand the Sikaflex to deepen the recess under the SS rings and tunnel under them. I'm not saying it wouldn't work at all. I think it would, but only at low pressures.
 
At least that's my take. Very nice renderings though!
 
 
Alec


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From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Brent Hartwig
Sent: Friday, September 04, 2009 7:14 AM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] No Machining Hatch Sealing Concept

This is an idea I've been wanting to make some CAD models and drawings of for some time now. We have this big oval or rectangle steel plate doors for the hyperbaric chambers, and it's expensive to machine the doors and seating flanges flat, plus cut the O-ring groove. Even then the welded in door frame can and usually warps some. Once welded in the door frame is very hard to machine.   The concept shown in the below pictures and drawings, is showing a K-350 type hatch and hatch land, that have two rolled 1/4" SS rod rings, that are TIG welded onto the hatch flange, and two on the hatch land.  The two on the hatch land are to form a dam for Sekaflex, that you caulk in there and level off.  Then to allow the upper SS rings to seat down into the Sekaflex enough to take up any warp in both flanges and not stick to the Sekaflex while it is curing, you apply mold release to the SS rings, and then spray them with PVA mold release agent and let that dry.  Then before the Sekaflex is caulked into the lower rings, you lower the hatch and figure out what spacers you need to keep if from going down to far into the urethane. Then add the Sekaflex of the type of hardness you want, and lower the hatch, which is attached at the hinge to keep every thing lined up, and set the hatch down on your taped or clamped on spacers, and let it cure. 
 
One could use just one upper SS sealing ring as you can see in the drawing of a large WWII ballast tank flapper valve.  But I like the primary and secondary sealing means, and it evens out the stresses more.
 
 
http://cid-5085d10eb6afe47c.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/No%20Machining%20Hatch%20Sealing%20Concept%2055
 
 
 
 
  " Stand still. The trees ahead and bush beside you are not lost."   ~ Albert Einstein
 
 
 
Regards
Szybowski