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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Electrical thru-hulls



Yep Frank, Now your seeing the picture pretty good.  I'll likely need to remove a couple of items and either remove them entirely, or even better, just have a empty SS pressure housing in the back to put them in with a tool box type hasp and a hinge.  We what this really cool SS welding robot at my buddies shop that can weld up the seams and heads on large and small tanks perfectly, and fast to boot. I can make up a number little pressure tanks in short order.
 
I'll have the electrical main switch box, relay panel, breaker panel, CO2 absorbent unit, and Li-ion cordless tool battery and holders for the lights, in small bolted on SS pressure housings that open with hinge and hasp as mentioned.  The two separate battery banks (one for side thrusters, and the other for stern thrusters, will be in a FRP sealable box with all the electrical connections sealed in RTV or the like, and then filled with transformer oil, with a bladder outside the boxes like was done on the DSV Turtle to equalize pressures. At the moment the best option I've found for batteries is the Deka Sea Mate AGM's.  I'm still pondering the 24 volt vs. 36 volt question, and playing with the CAD models to see what best fits in my boat.  I think it's going to come down to the thruster control system I choose to use.
 
I've found a really nice pedal kayak seat, that will not absorb water like a foam type seat, and it breath really well. 
 
B

Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Electrical thru-hulls

Hi Brent. That sounds like a viable plan. Making your sub a "wet sub" but still 1 ATM. requires some very innovative solutions. Would it be possible to make some of the systems as stand-alone "components"
that are sealed inside water tight boxes, with just the cables or flexible HP hoses connecting them. I'm assuming the sub won't be all that deep when you flood it for training exercises, so maybe just some off-the-shelf hoses and connectors between boxes would be fine for keeping some of the more sensitive parts from getting wet.
I'll be making stainless boxes for all my batteries, and although they won't be totally water "proof", the neoprene gaskets and suitcase type latches should keep any gas build-up inside and any water or vapor out.
The small control panel will be the same type of set-up.....a small stainless box with the 4 speed control dials and the three rocker switches for dive plane and rudder control. This will be loose on the end of the cable harness so it can be moved about inside the sub or reached through the hatch when topside.  Frank D.