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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options



Vance,
 
When I got Snoopy from Dale, he'd set up the fish finder with it's own little battery to avoid electrical noise. No need for something like a car battery, it was more like a laptop battery. He charged it by connecting the little battery to the big ones with a built-in switch, which seems odd but worked fine. I still use the separate battery setup, though both battery and fish finder have changed.
 
cheers,
 
Alec



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From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of vbra676539@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 12:26 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options

I have a friend nearby who rigs fishing boats for a living. I'll take a run down there this week and talk to him about isolating the controllers. If it can be done, he'll know how. If not, I'll have to look into something else. Arrgh!!! It's always something, isn't it? Thanks for the info.
Vance



-----Original Message-----
From: MerlinSub@t-online.de
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Sat, Jun 13, 2009 12:04 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options

<vbra676539@aol.com> schrieb:
> Carsten,
> 
> Why is that? Fishing boats in the US use Minn Kotas and all sorts of elaborate 
fish finders and sonars, and use them together without problem. It would have to 
be leakage through the grounding system, yes? I wonder if there is any way to 
isolate the motor controls more effectively.
> 
> Vance
 
Hi BVance seems that some of them have the same problems..: 

http://www.xumba.scholleco.com/viewtopic.php?t=35&highlight=trolling+motor

http://www.humminbird.com/support/FAQ.aspx?faqid=52

I have the sonar trouble with the MK-PM-Controller but not with the simple Rino 
Step controller. 
And also not if the MK-PM Controller ist switch to 100% power. 

I think it is the high frequenzy noise from the controller. 

And we have the same problem with the Euronauts big 40 KW PM-Motorcotroller and 
the same sonar even if the sonar is not attacht to the boat 
and some few meters away. My Electronic engineer think that he can later on the 
final installion fix that with meassuring all and than some extra filters. 

Seems on Peppers it is the only way to change the Mainmotor and Motorcontroller. 

No problems on the same boat with the step-controlled thrusters.  

And for this reason the KSS gets only step controlled motors. 
I like to have a sub can see 300 feet left and right and forward.. 
http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gx2jl1e9

vbr Carsten 


> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MerlinSub@t-online.de
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Sent: Sat, Jun 13, 2009 6:39 am
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please note: The PM controller of minnkota do no work with any sonar.
> You get only a huge amount of snow on your screen..
> 
> And a sub without sonar is nearly blind. 
> 
> VBR carsten
> 
> "ronleonard@shaw.ca" <ronleonard@shaw.ca> schrieb:
> > A couple of notes:
> > The only difference between saltwater Minn Kotas and the standard Minn Kotas
> > is the addition of a zinc prop nut to the saltwater motors. Save a few bucks
> > and go for the fresh water motors and the zinc nuts are available from any
> > Minn Kota parts depot and are cheap.
> > 
> > Minn Kotas can be purchased as just the motor, prop, and shaft, again from
> > the parts desk. If you can't get find them anywhere, I have an account with
> > Minn Kota and can help you out.
> > 
> > If you want info on what we use for motor controllers, drop me a line
> > directly.
> > 
> > Ron
> > ronleonard@shaw.ca
> > 
> > 
> > On Thu, Jun 11, 2009 at 4:23 PM, Brent Hartwig <brenthartwig@hotmail.com>wrote:
> > 
> > >
> > >
> > > Greetings ** James,
> > >
> > > I'm also planning on installing small mostly off the shelf thrusters on 
the
> > > sides of my K boat to reduce drag and simplify things.  I've been planning
> > > on using 36 volt Minn Kota 101 saltwater thrusters, like Frank, and I
> > > believe Vance are using and oil compensate them.  Last I checked those
> > > thruster were running $250 each with the speed controllers going for  $150
> > > each.
> > >
> > > I'll have to check my notes, but I believe Karl Stanley is using 6 of the
> > > 36 volt Minn Kota saltwater thruster that he has oil compensated, and has
> > > used down to 2500 fsw.  Two for vertical thrust and four in the stern. Are
> > > you expecting to go that deep James. ;}
> > >
> > > I like the idea of using the existing flexible shafts on some motors that
> > > Alec mentioned. I expected that I would clamp mine on in a similar manor 
as
> > > Frank has done, since I'm not sure of the long term saltwater durability 
of
> > > my favorite brand of duck tape.
> > >
> > > I see the need to beef up the side thru hulls, and was planning on looking
> > > closely at how Dan beefed his up. With t
> he new tangle guard configuration
> > > I'm planning, I don't expect the thrusters will sustain any real damage
> > > unless the Euronaut or the like plays to rough with my sub.
> > > *
> > > Regards,*
> > > *Szybowski*
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Subdate
> > > > Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 17:46:21 -0400
> > > > From: Alec.Smyth@compuware.com
> > > > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> > > >
> > > > Hi James,
> > > >
> > > > 1. Do people just buy the standard Minn Kota outboard motor complete
> > > > with the bracket, leg, controls, handle, battery etc and just modify the
> > > > motor part? or can you get just the motor and prop on its own?
> > > >
> > > > AS: You can buy just the parts you need cheaper than the whole thing, I
> > > > recommend www.trollingmotorparts.com.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > 2. Whats the through hull design? A straight forward twin O ring
> > > > through hull on the outboard shaft?
> > > >
> > > > AS: I would not go with the standard pipe because it just isn't strong.
> > > > In fact some motors come with plastic pipes designed to be flexible so
> > > > the shaft bends when you hit something, rather than break off. On the
> > > > side thrusters, I've got heavy through-hulls. I did use the stock pipe
> > > > on the stern thruster, because that one doesn't go through the hull. The
> > > > through-hulls are just a SS bar stock with an external shoulder to
> > > > prevent the thing from being pushed in, and bored to whatever minimum
> > > > inside diameter you need for the cables and potting. Do not just pot the
> > > > cables, you have to put in solid conductors so the pressure doesn't wick
> > > > along the cable strands. I'd recommend machining some vice flats on the
> > > > through-hull too, for the day you need to unscrew a thruster that's been
> > > > on there a few years.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > 3. Compensation. Oil, ambient air pressure regulator?
> > > > I've had both but like oil compensation the best because it's the
> > > > simplest (not a single moving part). I just changed the oil a couple of
> > > > days ago. I expected it to be laden wi
> th carbon deposits, but it came
> > > > out looking like new despite being in there for 4 years. Admittedly I
> > > > put very few hours on the sub, but it still surprised me that the oil
> > > > came out looking as clear as the day it went in. And yes, it WAS oil not
> > > > water that came out...
> > > >
> > > > :)
> > > >
> > > > Alec
> > >
> > >
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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