Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Subdate

[MerlinSub@t-online.de]

Hi Frank thanks for the flowers.. 

<http://picasaweb.google.nl/submachine55/Kreideseesub> 

The most reason for aluminium for the Kreideseesub MBTs was that they are better against impact as GRP tanks. The other reason was that GRP saddle tanks needs at least a big mold. 
In that way and thinking about the workhours - metal tanks are cheaper and faster to build. 

The aluminium win the race against the stainless MBT tanks because of stability issues - the calculation shows that stainless tanks are heavier even with less thickness. 

Kreideseesub is a 2-3 man Seater and two person should be upright on 
the deck without stability problems. 

There are a lot of expierence from other boats we designed, build, drive or 
have seen - in this little boat. 

The pressure bottle can be easy replace with the boat in the water. 

The emergency bouy reel can be start and stop from inside and the rope 
can be return turned to the reel on surface station. 

The controls are simpel and clear - the boat KSS-I will work also as school boat. 

The standard version we build has a dive depth equal to a K-820 
And can reach over 1000 feet for dive test purpose. 

The clear acrylic sail around the top dome can be easy mount or unmount 
depents on your mission - offshore or inshore. 

The forward dome act as an emergency exit. And the guest leave the boat first.. 
captain leave at least or stays..

The motors have no pm controler - just step controllers and there
for the sonar equipment will be work without big snow and heavy trouble. 

The servo motors are strong and self blocking - and can be easy remove 
even on dive station if they are not work properly. 

The batterys are inside - simple for maintance and easy build reason. 
But also a contribution to the near future that modern batterys are much 
more compact than the old lead onces. And maybe cheaper. 

But the best is that we have beer holders on it.. and Budweisser, Heiniken or Becks fit in.
..and you can adjust the co2 monitor to a higher rate if you open to much bottles.

If the first boat is finished in some months, the drawings will be available to a price equal
to a K-820 or K-1000 boat.. But in euro.. And kit parts like thrusters, domes, milled parts, rudders, lights etc. also.  

vbr Carsten 


<ShellyDalg@aol.com> schrieb:
> Hi Vance. Those pictures of Carsten and Emile's sub are really good, and  
> show a lot of good ideas along with some first rate workmanship. Very  
> impressive. 
> They also show the differences between the new technology/design in  
> comparison to the original Kittredge boats. Incorporating some of those  
> innovations into a re-build of your K boat would be great to see.
> As it applies to the fairwater tanks, it seems like a good bit of work. One 
>  of the things I like about the K boat design is it's simplicity. The FRP 
> shells  being a combination of tanks and fairing there by serving dual 
> purposes is good  in it's simplicity but presents a slight increase in risk.
> The Kreidersub is using aluminum as tanks, which seems to me a good idea.  
> Metal tanks will take a lot more abuse than FRP. The saddle design versus  
> front/back like on the K boats also adds surface stability and deck space. 
> Both  good improvements that should be fairly easy to add to a K boat. ( OK, 
> maybe not  so easy, but still good )
> My comment on this would be to suggest stainless rather than  aluminum.
> The FRP shells could be modified ( saved ) to cover the added saddle tanks  
> and still serve as fairings. I've made my fairings about 1/4 to 3/8 inch 
> thick  FRP ( up to 1 inch in critical areas ) and I'm confident I can walk on  
> them without worry. 
> The stainless tanks can take a serious "hit" without leaking, unlike  the K 
> boat shells. They will get dented, but would really have to hit something  
> hard and sharp to punch a hole or blow out a seam. 
> Aluminum is good, but stainless is better at resisting corrosion, and much  
> stronger on impact.
> The cost difference between stainless and aluminum isn't that great, and  
> thinner stainless can be used due to it's increased strength. Also, stainless 
> is  easier to weld, and more ductile than aluminum, so shaping it is less 
> risky  where cracks on tight bends could be a problem with aluminum.
> I had originally planned on using FRP for my tanks, but decided that  
> "cracking" them on the rocks was too risky. Then I went with 16 gage stainless,  
> covered by FRP fairings to keep a sleek and snag free shape. Well, as you 
> see, I  ended up with increased thickness on the tanks, ( 12 gage ), 
> eliminated the  lower fairings, and saved a big chunk of money and the extra work 
> associated  with producing the lower fairings.
> The Kriedersub is a fine example of the evolution of the basic K boat  
> design, and I'm sure that future designs will be along those lines.
> As it relates to a rebuild, these new ideas seem like a  worthwhile 
> endeavor with the added stability and resistance to crashing. 
> Have you got any pictures of your sub? Sure would be nice to see a re-fit  
> in photos as it progresses.
> Looking forward to seeing you soon and sharing some ideas over a drink.  
> Frank D.  
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