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Hi Frank, I looked at linear actuators but I couldn’t find any that
worked at a reasonable speed. Most appear to move at 1.5 – 2 inches
per second. More force less speed. What is your take on that. Nice drawing and concept. Hugh From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of ShellyDalg@aol.com Hi Dean. I've been playing with that idea for some time now, but
haven't started any component assembly yet. My first thought was to use a hydraulic system because it was
pressurized so wouldn't let water in. Using a scuba tank to maintain pressure in the system, with double
acting cylinders set up in a slave/master design to eliminate the pump. I think
I've got another, simpler idea. I'm leaning toward using electric linear actuators for dive plane
and rudder positioning. I don't think pressure compensation will be needed with my latest
design. My thought is to enclose the actuator in a fiberglass housing
thick enough to withstand the pressure, and use a bellows for the rod
extension. Just two wires per actuator, and no other components or systems to
break down, wear out, or leak. 12 volt actuators are inexpensive and come in a wide array of
sizes. strokes, and strengths. The simplicity of the controls is what I like the best. Simple
electrical through-hulls, and toggle switches for in/out or up/down. The fiberglass housings will fit tight against the actuators, so
the actuator bodies will provide the structural base to withstand the pressure.
Not a lot of empty space in those things and the hard aluminum or stainless
bodies are plenty strong enough to withstand the outside pressure. There isn't any power loss from transferring electrical
power to hydraulics, and it eliminates all the hoses, valves, tanks, pumps etc.
needed to move the devices. There's two power systems on every sub. Electrical and hi pressure
air. Gotta have at least those two. I'd like to eliminate another system if I can. ( like a separate
hydraulic system.) The bellows are pretty straight forward and can be purchased or
fabricated. They would of course need to be replaced as they wear, but should
be fairly cheap. My dive planes need a stroke of 4 inches. The rudder needs 8
inches. The bellows fit tight against the 1/2 inch stainless actuator rods, and
seal tight with clamps. No sliding seals or O rings. just a flexible bellows. I'll make a quick sketch and put it up to better explain what I'm
thinking. Frank D. A Good Credit Score is 700 or
Above. See
yours in just 2 easy steps!
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