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The lesson I'm taking away from all this is
to use cotter pins instead of nuts whenever practical.
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From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of
ShellyDalg@aol.com
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 10:50 To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lead Plates Removel on K-250 #118 Hi Guys. I've had lots of problems with SS galling in the past, mostly with
just bolts.
Although the bolts weren't in salt water, they were exposed to the weather,
and sometimes acids, which is why SS was used. I did a job and we used SS bolts
and cadmium plated steel nuts with SS washers, and although the nuts got a
little crusty after about 2 years, they still came off fairly easy. I put
regular lithium grease on them when we first installed the system ( stainless
exhaust ducts in a computer chip facility ) and because modifications are often
necessary in those companies, it was always the practice before to just use a
big breaker bar and spin the bolts until they broke.
I always hated that approach because often times it was
necessary to dis-assemble sections that weren't within the scope of work due to
access on some of the flanges. Sometimes we'd have to go back up the line
several sections and break it there so we could pull out the pieces we wanted to
change. Of course, the salesmen bidding the jobs didn't account for the extra
labor, or the material, and it was always a struggle to make a buck.
By using the cad nuts and grease, it worked most of the
time.
The engineers who wrote the specs for SS hardware didn't like it much, but
it worked.
I wonder if Teflon plumbers tape would be an alternative ?
It's cheap, easy, and won't degrade with salt water. Frank
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