Brent,
I am not hammering on you; this is the same message that others
keep passing out when questions come up as to ports and domes. If you
check the archives for over the past year, one or more persons would request
that the inquirer refer to the manual. I provided a partially correct
answer initially because I didn’t climb up on my drafting board and drag
out the tome. I then had to climb back up there to get the book down a
second time to give you another answer. Get the book out first and
then ask the list its opinion based upon your research. Since James has a
copy, he could have done the research (this is not meant to reflect negatively of
James). Your finances, personal issues, and priorities were not an issue
here. I gave you a straight answer, you are being overly sensitive.
Let us not get in another flame war…if you ask questions, be prepared for
the variety of answers you receive otherwise people stop giving of their time.
Jay
Respectfully,
Jay K. Jeffries
Andros Is., Bahamas
Talk sense to a fool and he calls you foolish.
- Euripides (484 BC - 406 BC)
From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Brent
Hartwig
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 1:24 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] O-Rings & Acrylic Ports
Please lighten up Jay.
I have a different life and different priorities then you, and likely always
will. You learned something new because I brought up the subject to the group,
and you have had the book for quite some time. For some time now my hobby money
has been quit limited, for personal reasons I'm not going to discuss with you.
So what hobby money I did have available, I saved for quite some time to
purchase the item that was at the top of my list. That item was the K-250, I'm
now the proud owner of. I can purchase the Stachiw book at any time when I'm
ready to do so. But I might of missed out on the K-250 if I didn't focus on
that goal. I plan to purchase the Stachiw book after I acquire my TIG welder
that is higher in my list.
Further more, James and I both wanted to see what the group thought of the
ideas that had been worked up to that point in those models and drawings, and
he has Stachiw's book.
Your
resident pipe dreamer ;)'
Regards,
Szybowski
From: bottomgun@mindspring.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] O-Rings & Acrylic Ports
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:49:22 -0400
Brent,
As numerous people have stated before, get Stachiw out.
For a port see page 257 where he has various diagrams for mounting which
include some similar to what you are describing. Generally if you need to
do something with port and domes, it is in Jerry’s book. If you
don’t have a copy, you need to get one (which has also been stated
numerous times also).
R/Jay
Respectfully,
Jay K. Jeffries
Andros Is., Bahamas
Talk sense to a fool and he calls you foolish.
- Euripides (484 BC - 406 BC)
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Brent
Hartwig
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:50 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] O-Rings & Acrylic Ports
Hi All,
Thank you for the good data to chew on guys. When I was working on different
dome and flat viewports in the past, I didn't know about the hard neoprene type
gaskets, and that it was considered a good option in some applications. I was
interesting in another way to seal a dome or flat viewport that wasn't glued
in, in such a way that it was hard to remove for maintenance and/or
replacement. I now wish to use the hard gasket type seals in several
applications.
Do
you think there would be any advantage to adding a small raised lip to the
inside of the hard gasket in the dome or flat viewport seating flange? I was
thinking it might be useful to keep the gasket from extruding in towards the
interior. But since there is so many square inches of surface area on the exterior
of the dome and/or flat viewport, much of it pushing down. I figure that
there is far more pressure being transfered down to the domes or flat viewports
seating surface then is being applied to the very small surface area on the
outer most edge of the gasket.
The configuration I was thinking of would have a small gap between the lip and
the dome, say 1/8", and the gasket would be cut to fit tight against that
lip. this way the gasket wouldn't have room to move and the dome wouldn't be
affected by the lip. That grove that would be created would get condensation
water running into it and might be a little hard to clean, but there might be a
way to install a very soft gasket type seal in that groove to deal with that
issue. To add a small lip in the interior of a flat viewport seat would be a
little different and would need to be in my opinion, shorter to as to not ever
touch the flat acrylic viewport under full rated pressure. So in that
configuration one might want a thicker hard gasket.
The viewports seat being distorted from welding, I believe is a very good
point. This is why I was thinking about a way to make a poured type gasket, and
in some way coat, wax, etc. the viewport so you can remove it after the gasket
has cured. Then clean the viewport and install it for the final time in the
orientation it was when the gasket was formed. Perhaps the orientation will not
be a issue. This way you have a custom gasket that is not glued to your
acrylic. This is what I was thinking about doing for my front lower viewport on
my K-250 that has a lightly pitted seating surface. I'll smooth the seating
surface out a fair bit with epoxy paint, but even if I get it smooth, there
could well be some welding distortions to deal with. One could use a couple
light coats of PVA mold release agent sprayed on, and if the paper or plastic
protective coating is still on or could perhaps be reapplied on the flat
acrylic viewports, then that might be a good way to go. For the domes you could
add some things like that as well.
Your resident pipe dreamer ;)'
Regards,
Szybowski