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Brent,
By weight, a magnet, a grinder and your eyes you can
pretty much determine what most metals are.
If it's heavy and fully magnetic, it's steel.
If it's light weight, it's aluminum.
If it's heavy and slightly magnetic or non magnetic,
produces dull red sparks with a grinder and looks like steel where you ground,
it's most likely stainless steel.
If it's heavy, non magnetic and the grinder doesn't make
sparks or makes very few sparks, you can examine the ground area and determine
if it's zinc, copper or bronze by the color.
If it's real heavy, soft and doesn't make sparks it's most
likely lead, or something combined with lead if it's not real soft.
The above will always get you in the ball
park. Grinder sparks tell a lot about a metal. Of course it's a crude
method because there are all combinations of metals. But it's a
start.
If it doesn't show rust and is pitted from corrosion but
was used as a functional part, my bet is on aluminum. Throw it away!
It shouldn't have been bolted to steel anyway.
Yes, the holes in my pod mountings are so I could get
a line or chain in them and pull from there. To tell you the truth, I
don't think I ever used them but the holes were cheep to make before the
sub was painted, so I made them.
Unfortunately what I received from the Captain was very
brief. I was hoping he had a good easy to copy list of the subs he built
and maybe some information to go with each but not really. I have a
list of sub numbers and who some of them were made for. He may
have more information but I didn't get it.
Do you know what number you sub is? The list
is numbered between 105 and 131. It has the names of the
original purchaser for most and the dates for a few. I'm sending what I
received along with the list I compiled to Jon. He's the keeper of
the site and should have this also.
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 1:59 AM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Unknown
Connection Bars on my K-250
Greetings
Dan,
Is there any interesting
data in the materials you received from the
Captain?
Those bars we are
talking about are far more corroded then any of the surrounding metal. So I
don't think it's steel. Perhaps if it's not zinc, it us aluminum. There is no
rust coming from the chipped off paint on them. Ya I don't like overlapping
metals like that on the exterior.
Speaking of overlapping metal.
I saw a overlapping saddle collar like I have around my conning tower on a new
large storage tank that has a large access tube in the top like are Kittredge
subs.
Dan are the large holes
drilled in the pod plates near the front of Persistence for pulling it down
low if need be? I like your idea of using solid round bar stock rings. I
think I can install a modified version of that, of which will be hidden in
behind the inside of the leading edges of the keel skids. For this I would use
round bar stock of the same diameter as the existing support between the front
of the keels. Then weld in a quarter of a circle piece of those bars, with one
end welded to the back of the existing bar support out about 2 inches and
then weld the other end to the inside vertical surface of the 1/4" vertical
plate of the skids. This would keep the rope or chain attached to
the front keel support bar, from moving or bending said support
bar.
I do a lot of sandblasting
for my furniture business and fine detail blasting for restoring old guns and
machinery.
http://www.frappr.com/?a=viewphoto&id=4001713&pid=10167592
I've
learned that if you put two or more smaller compressors together, you can get
enough CFM to do more commercial work if you don't have a larger compressor. I
plan to do all the blasting my self using copper slag blasting media. It cuts
twice as fast as silica, and is healthier for you to be around. Once I've
removed every thing off the sub, I need to blast every part of the pressure
hull inside and out. This way I can do a much better inspection for any
pitting and/or visible cracks if there are any. Then I will spray on a cheap
temporary high zinc primer to keep the rust down while I replace a few thru
hulls and add a few weldments. Then I'll reblast every thing and apply a
proper epoxy primer.
"That man is the richest whose pleasures are the
cheapest." ~ Henry David Thoreau
Regards,
Brent
Hartwig
From: Jumachine@comcast.net
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject:
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Unknown Connection Bars on my K-250
Date: Sat, 12 Jul
2008 22:32:02 -0400
Brent,
If your reconditioning the sub anyway just remove them
and toss them. Flat pieces bolted together like that are a place to
get rust forming that you can't get at. Best if you toss those tabs and
replace them with something made out of round stock welded in place.
Maybe two U shaped rings.
Are you considering sand blasting the entire sub.
If your going to strip it down and rebuild it, you may want to consider sand
blasting. It's the easiest way to work with something like that.
No paint to grind off, the rust is all gone and you can see what your working
with. You need someone that has an industrial size blaster and a large
compressor. Probably an half day job. It's not cheep but worth it in the
long run.
Enjoy and good luck with it.
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 7:13
PM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Unknown
Connection Bars on my K-250
Hello
SMMO's, I have been pondering
what these flat connection bars are, that are bolted to the top front area
of my double keel skids. I suppose you could winch the sub forward with
them, but they feel, look, and sound like brittle zinc anodes. They were
attached somewhat haphazardly. If anyone knows or
would care to venture a guess, I'd like to figure it
out? I have not
come across them in the K-250 plans. I was just going to remove them
and attach a zinc anode just below them on the inside of the vertical plate
of the skids. Also notice
that the port keel is skip welded at the base and the starboard side is
solid welded.
http://www.frappr.com/?a=viewphoto&id=2384531&pid=10166020
Regards,
Brent
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