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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Penetrators/corrosion.



James and Frank,

Remember that oxygen is required for the corrosion process, and the closed tank will use whatever small amount is left pretty quickly. Rusting will be slower than you think. If you sandblast internally before welding, then pour in a gallon of paint and roll it around, then drain it, you'll probably get a good coating. As a final solution, why not do all that to mild steel, and then keep a bottle of nitrogen handy in the shop? When you get home after a dive series, blow the tank dry, then purge it with nitrogen and close the valves. You'll reduce the internal oxygen content to a very small amount, and reduce the rusting substantially as a result, and it wouldn't cost much over the long run. Ten years would be a very conservative estimate for the VBT as designed by Captain George, I'd bet, and for all practical purposes, nitrogen would probably make it last forever, give or take an infinity or two.

Vance


---- Original Message ----
From: ShellyDalg@aol.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 10:28 am
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Penetrators/corrosion.

Hi James. Yes, It's tough scavenging odd parts in a small community. Like Dan said, if you used a common mild steel, and planned on replacing it later, that might be a better route. You could use a mounting method like bands or straps so you don't have to cut/weld when replacement time comes. It seems like you could coat the inside of a small tank fairly easy and increase it's longevity in salt water. Good metal prep before you weld it closed, and pour in a good epoxy paint. That's probably cheaper than stainless. How about an aluminum scuba tank ? a used one or two found on ebay would work, and the used ones that are too old to be used for scuba can be had for $20 each. They have 3/4 inch threaded holes so would be easy to plumb up. Frank D.




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