|
Hi Jon. I'm using JB Weld because it has a low shrinkage rate and is easily
gotten at any hardware store. It also resists heat pretty well in case
electrical resistance causes the brass rods to heat up.
To prevent bubbles, I'm rolling the sub so the thru-hull is as close to
vertical as I can get, and injecting the epoxy into the nipple with a small
syringe type thing I bought at the fiberglass store. They're only a couple of
bucks each, so I don't even try to clean and re-use them, just chuck em
out.
After the epoxy sets up, I remove the masking tape from the exposed threads
on the rods, clean them up a bit, and put the washer and nuts on. The bottom (
inside the sub ) nuts and washers are already installed before I put the epoxy
in. I use a piece of foam outside of the lower washers to position the rods
within the nipples.
Like I said, with main battery pod cables this same approach can be used
but with a bigger nipple and the connectors from welding cables. There are a
couple of different kinds but the ones that are male/female and require a 1/4
turn to lock them would work well because the 1/4 turn makes them get tighter as
you turn it so electrical resistance across the connection can be
minimized.
As you know, voltage drop in a DC system is greatly exaggerated when
compared to AC. It's important to keep the cables as short as possible. Frank
D. Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. |