Hi Dan,
I have some experience with gyrocompass and plan on
having one in my sub. If they are in good shape there is VERY little noise. Even
with engine off in my plane, you could just barely hear it. If there is
significant noise the bearings are getting loose and the unit needs rebuilding.
When the bearings get loose and or worn the unit will tend to precess more
quickly and neet to be reset more frequently.
I have a question for you and/or anyone else with
experience in subs. I am trying to keep my sub as simple and basic as possible
and am working on the design of an instrument panel. I have listed below what I
feel is the minimum necessary requirements in my situation.
1. High quality voltmeter with toggle to check both
banks
2. External pressure gauge
3. VBT pressure gauge
4. GyroCompass
5. Air Pressure Gauge for breathing air - one for
each bank
If anyone has suggestions for things that are
needed or should be considered please let me know.
Thanks in advance.
Best Regards,
Jim K
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2008 6:39
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air
lock
Yep, Vance, Still plenty of ice.
In some part of the lakes when there is current,
there's the start of open water.
I had so many things I wanted to do on my sub
this winter but didn't have time for many of them. I've been pretty busy
in my shop. The only thing I did was, I added a gauge to read the VBT
pressure. Also a friend is giving me a aviation gyro compass that
I'll be installing soon, but that's about all I'll get to this year. The
arm will have to wait for next winter. I'm thinking the noise of the
gyro compass will be a nuisance but at least I should be able to tell
direction.
How's your boat coming? Will she get wet
this summer?
Regards,
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 8:42
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air
lock
Dan, Of course, you'll have to break some ice to dive either
way, or has spring sprung up your way? Vance
-----Original
Message----- From: Dan. H. <jumachine@comcast.net> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org Sent:
Thu, 20 Mar 2008 8:26 am Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air
lock
Vance,
Ok I stand corrected. MOST times the MBT
are totally flooded when diving.
On a K sub, I don't see the advantage of a MBT
bubble over a bit less water in the VBT. Actually I think my VBT vents
faster then my MBT. If I want to get heavy It's easier to let a little
water in the MBT.
With the slow venting of the K-subs MBT I think
you could get into trouble diving with a bubble in them. If you
started to ascend, I'm not sure if you could release air quick enough to
over come the expansion before you popped up on top.
I don't know if it's the accepted way or not,
but I usually totally vent the MBT's, flood the VBT to neutral, dive with
the thrusters, then fine tune the MBT near the bottom if I want to be
heavier or lighter. Neutral is easier to control but I try to keep it
a slight bit positive in case I "fall a sleep." I'd rather be found
skimming the surface rather then be searched for on the bottom.
I agree, the K sub VBT's are to slow to
vent. Even in calm water it's tricky to vent equally between the
forward and aft tank to keep an even keel and it takes a long
time.
Still diving without a MBT bubble,
;-)
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 7:52
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air
lock
Hey guys,
Not to rain on anyone's parade, but it
was, in fact, perfectly normal in the oilfield subs to trim a little heavy
and "ride the bubble" meaning a shot of air in the MBTs to maneuver with.
It's handy if you are operating near the bottom, and very quick, assuming
a fairly stable depth. That way, you can goof around down there to your
heart's content, and vent quick to settle onto the bottom if and/or when
you need to. Neutral buoyancy via small trim systems is a fine thing, but
slow and finicky to do (except in the JSLs which have almost as much VBT
as most boats have MBT).
Don't sell yourself short by saying that
there's only one way to do things, as there are, in fact, a whole pile of
variations out there, and they're like spare ammunition for your personal
defense firearm--mighty handy to have when you need them. The Navy guys
cringe at the idea of that bubble, but it worked a treat, and was even
included in the beginning pilot's training classes, right alongside
VBT-101 and all the rest.
As to the fairwater vent valve size,
bigger is better. George's were (are) too small. When I vent, I want to
GO!, and I mean right now. Three-quarter inch valves are, in my opinion,
about the minimum. One inch and up would be even better!!! That's for
ball valves, of course.
The Aquarius used pneumatic mushroom valves
designed pretty much after a dry suit vent valve, only bigger. The vent
area itself was an inch and a half in diameter (or thereabouts) with
a ring of half inch holes in the body. Pop the valve and out came the air,
and I don't mean maybe. You could vent a half ton of fairwater ballast air
in no time flat, and it was really nice to be able to get underwater
without all that waiting around.
Remember, anything you can do to
keep from spilling your coffee is worth a try. Wallowing around in three
or four meter waves is something you don't want to do any more of than you
have to. Taking that lesson forward, it stands to reason that the more
flexible you can make your sub, the more capable it will be, and that
translates to a better tool for you. It's a sort of belt and suspenders
approach, which I heartily approve
of.
Vance
-----Original Message----- From: Dan. H.
<jumachine@comcast.net> To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org Sent:
Mon, 17 Mar 2008 10:57 pm Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT air
lock
Frank and Brian,
The MBT's are only used at the surface. When diving they should
be totally full of water and not used for depth control. When the
tanks are being flooded, all air gets expelled, even the air in the
line. That's how the water gets in the line. Once my tanks are
full of water I leave the vent valves open and never feel a difference in
buoyancy while diving..
The Variable Ballast Tank (VBT or hard ballast tank) is
what is use to adjust buoyancy. That's designed with all ports
closable so once it's set, the bubble can't shrink or expand while your
diving.
Frank,
It looks to me like your system will work since your lines is
sloped back. Any water caught in them should eventually
settle back in the tank, but you can't have any dips.. A three
eights line may be a little small though. It will take a long
time to vent and it's harder for air to travel up as the water runs
back. Half inch would be better. Water will be caught in the
pipe above the closed vent valve though. If it's low to the water
line, it may be blown out by the pressure in the MBT but if it's not, a
quick burst of fill air through your T will surely clear the line.
Still, I feel the better way to deal with the vents is to place the
valve right at the top of the tank and run linkage rather then
tubing. But it's not the only way. As long as you can prevent
water from getting trapped in the line or have a method to blow it out it
will work.
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 2:04
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT
air lock
Hi guys. Is the air lock problem on the ballast tanks due
to the line from tank to valve being too long? Or is it that the
valve has a length of line above it that holds water ?
I know that the line can't have any low spots in it, or even just
run level, but must have a continuous up-slope. I remember Gary saying
his original installation had a low/level spot that trapped a little
water and effectively plugged the line, but he fixed it by moving the
valve higher. His valves are located outside the tower, with the
valve handles inside and a seal on the valve handle shaft.
It's a nice clean installation.
I am planning on running the lines into the sub, and using a
''T'' with air line to blow the tanks, and the line exiting the sub near
the top of the hull. This method has the same number of thru-hulls,
but has more valves. One on each thru-hull, and one on the ''T'' for the
air line. ( three valves for each tank.)
I think Gary's has a separate air line going to the tank for
blowing dry so basically one thru-hull for the air line and one for the
valve handle shaft.
My ballast tanks are several inches higher at the connection, and
I'm hoping that with the short length of the plumbing, I should be able
to avoid any blockage.
The hole in the bottom of the tanks is low and 3 inch diameter. I
was planning on using a 1/2 inch thru-hull for releasing the air. Does
anyone think that's too small ?
I'll try to put a sketch of the system up so you guys can comment
on it.
Frank D.
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