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Carsten, You make a good point for heavy hatches. I'll keep that in mind for larger projects. I was thinking about using gas shocks internally for much lighter hatches that can be pretty easily lifted with out springs or gas shocks, but as an assist, to make it easier to lift and help keep it up until I'm ready to close it. I'm planning on having my hatches on my two seater sub be a larger diameter then most smaller PSUBs so I'll have plenty of room for the gas shocks and larger passengers. How do you plan to limit the rust on your hatch lift springs? Does any one here know what the coating, if any was use on hatch springs on WWII subs? Regards,
Brent " Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him how to fish, and he will sit in a boat and drink all day. " ~ Unknown > Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Something new on springs > From: MerlinSub@t-online.de > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org > Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 15:47:00 +0000 > > A gas spring can lose pressure.. > And a stainles steel one is may expensive. > > The Euronaut hatch weights sopme 90 kg (200 pound)if a gas > spring lose the pressure during maybe a deeper or longer duvie - you arre trapped.. > > I prefer simple mechanic springs. > > regards Carsten > > > "Brent Hartwig" <brenthartwig@hotmail.com> schrieb: > > > > Hi Frank, > > > > You bring up an issue with springs I've been pondering for some time now. I could be wrong, but don't both the Nemo sub and the R300 sub use stainless steel hatch springs? I was thinking about using a couple of gas shocks, like used on mini-van rear hatches, internally to lift my hatch or use two smaller springs for one hatch, like used on Nemo. But I would be interested in how your leaf spring idea works out Frank. I would think if would take some figuring to get the full range of motion you would desire with a hatch. You might have to heat up the leaf spring and then bend it into more of an arce and then retemper it to the peacock color. I don't see how your going to get the spring to hold the hatch down, other then the hinge side of the hatch if your using the slotted hinge method. > > > > I always figured that the larger and perhaps softer O-rings like used on Kraka or even a lipped seal would make it easier to seal out low pressure water near the surface. > > > > Regards, > > Brent Hartwig > > > > > > From: ShellyDalg@aol.comDate: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 03:55:44 -0500Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Minn-Kota Thrusters -- something new on springsTo: personal_submersibles@psubs.org > > > > Hi Doug. About the controllers. I'm not too thrilled with cutting the wires.As for the heat, good point. I'm hoping a small fan in the box will fix that. Or maybe leave the controllers exposed to the air. ( with the associated electrical connections covered, of course. Look at it like my "on-board heater". ) > > I expect the "4 joystick box" to be about 4 inches wide and 10 inches long by 4 to 6 inches deep. Haven't spent a lot of time on this detail yet. > > I've got most of the parts for it, and have seen the gears, pivot pins, bushings, screws etc. in local places. Shouldn't take too long to fab that thing up. > > I'll be putting in my through-hulls before I make a box. > > -----Here's something new.------ > > I have a unique solution to a problem the community may be interested in. > > I've never felt comfortable with the coil spring on the hatch. Every one I've seen was rusty from flexing and losing paint. Several I've seen actually try to lift the hatch when its closed. This could present a problem when submerging in shallow water. > > The design I've come up with is a leaf spring, which pushes down on the hatch when it's closed ( for added sealing at shallow depths ), but helps to open the hatch at the same time. Sounds crazy, I know. But I'm pretty sure it will work. I haven't built it yet. ( that's next ) > > I made a rough sketch of it on frappr, and here's the link...... > > http://www.frappr.com/?a=viewphoto&id=1578526&pid=8988051&myphotos=1 > > I've got some truck springs that should work. > > some advantages are.....Less drag, better corrosion resistance ( dip the leaf spring in a rubber coating ), fewer connection points ( just the bracket to hold the spring on one end. ), easily replaceable ( Hey, truck springs are free ! ), and doesn't need to be removed when the hatch comes off. ( for rescue.) Check it out. Frank D. > > > > > > Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new year. > > > > > ************************************************************************ > ************************************************************************ > ************************************************************************ > The personal submersibles mailing list complies with the US Federal > CAN-SPAM Act of 2003. Your email address appears in our database > because either you, or someone you know, requested you receive messages > from our organization. > > If you want to be removed from this mailing list simply click on the > link below or send a blank email message to: > removeme-personal_submersibles@psubs.org > > Removal of your email address from this mailing list occurs by an > automated process and should be complete within five minutes of > our server receiving your request. > > PSUBS.ORG > PO Box 53 > Weare, NH 03281 > 603-529-1100 > ************************************************************************ > ************************************************************************ > ************************************************************************ > |