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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re: Jim's through hull



Hi Frank,
 
I like some of your ideas! I have however decided to use the rotating shaft method. You bring up some valid points that I think I can mitigate if not completely remove.
 
I will probably use a double seal, to increase the odds if one seal is damaged. I also will use very close tolerances so that even if both seals failed the leak is a nuisance rather than a serious and immediate safety concern. More importantly in my opinion, is the breakaway design I will be using. I have always been concerned that in the event I hit something that would snap the rotating shaft the water pressure would blow the remaining shaft inboard, leaving a large opening to the outside with no way of stopping the flow. In my case this shaft will have a shoulder outboard so that this cannot happen and a weaker necked down area that would fail first.
 
I am trying to keep most of my systems manual for reliability concerns.
 
Keep sending those great ideas. It's always good to share ideas and usually shows other good options to choose from.
 
Please contact me directly at kocpnt@tds.net  . I may be able to see you in late January if you will be home. I will be at a trade show in Las Vegas and I think I may be able to sneak away!
 
Best Regards,
 
Jim Kocourek
While I like your uyou esthe fst
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re: Jim's through hull

Hi guys. I put a new sketch up on frappr for my through hulls. Basically it's a stainless nipple welded into the hull, sized for what goes through it. The electrical penetrators  are 3/4 inch, air lines are 1/2 inch, water lines are 1 inch, and hydraulic lines are 3/8 inch.
All penetrations/nipples have a ball valve on the inside, to isolate that line in case of leakage.
As the sketch shows, for the electrical penetrator, I'll use spade connectors with the wires going through the ball valve. If a leak develops, I will pull the wires and shut the valve after cutting power to that circuit.
The cost of this design is very low per penetration, and if I wanted to change one, or add or delete one, again very inexpensive. I can't really see how this can leak, and should be simple to fabricate. I like the idea of using those through hulls rated at 3000fsw but they are pretty expensive, and I think I need around 25 penetrations. That adds up to ALOT ! 
With the side thrusters, The spring loaded mount will fail in the vertical position. Each motor mount includes a dive plane/wing parallel with the motor so as I change the angle of the motor, the dive plane/wing is also in the same direction. With reversing motors, I'll be able to go up-down, forward-back, left-right, spin in a circle, and even tilt the sub a bit side to side. I haven't worked out the linkage yet, but plan on having a movable drop weight for tilt, although I think just moving inside the sub will do that too.
I can see the need for a rotating shaft penetration if you have a big electric motor inside the sub, but I'm just afraid if it sits at the dock for any length of time, and the shaft seal started leaking, you may find the sub at the bottom of the harbor come morning.




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