RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] 200ton 18meter Live aboard submarine

[MerlinSub@t-online.de]

And the bow area should designed that way that the 200 ts 
concret hull can survive a impact of around 3-4 knots. 

For this reason most suface ships have a collison bulkhead. 
On a concret sub I would say make the bow area strong. 

regads Carsten


"Brent Hartwig" <brenthartwig@hotmail.com> schrieb:
> 
> Hello Ian,In the case of submerged cruising, I would think that a 10 meter depth wouldn't be deep enough to stay out of harms way with some of the larger ships out there. Even if they don't hit you at first, I've heard stories of submarines being sucked up into a ship and there massive props. Of course having good sonar is helpful, but if your taking a nap, you might get hit.  I have some relatives that are avid sailer's, and they hit a massive basking shark, and the shark didn't like it one bit and came after them and bit a big chunk off there rudder. So I guess the moral of the story is don't snooze in the shallows, in the shipping lanes.
> 
> I was thinking of my personal experience with concrete used in building construction that for floor slabs we would have fibermesh ( short strands of fiberglass) added to the mixing truck to make are slabs much more resistant to cracking over time. The stress rating for this type of concrete was so much higher that some guys didn't even put in much if any rebar and/or the large binding mesh. I was thinking that fibermesh or something like it could be useful in your sub hull.  There is also a type of special rebar that I see used on bridges and the like that is coated with a special (usually green) coating to keep them from rusting out when embedded in the concrete.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Brent Hartwig
> 
> > Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 15:57:54 -0500
> > From: irox@ix.netcom.com
> > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> > Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] 200ton 18meter Live aboard submarine
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Jon,
> > 
> > Wil's prototype was 9meter long with a mass of around 20tons.  I do not
> > know the maximum drive depth he took it to.  Wil, can you enlighten us
> > please?
> > 
> > Viewport retaining rings.  This is something I want to use, I've not
> > figured out exactly what/how yet, but I'm sure a solution can be found.
> > Could you point me to the page/pages in the Stachiw book (which i have
> > right here) that talk about the retaining ring being a major part of
> > the viewport's structure.  I'm curious as to what is said about view
> > ports what are bolted on rather than retained with a ring.
> > 
> > The metal hatch vs metal viewports.  This boat isn't coming out of the
> > water very often, so Wil is trying to reduce the maintainance required
> > below the water line.  Avoiding putting metal components below the
> > water will help.  The hatch will be above the water, so it can easily
> > be inspected, repaired or replaced as needed.
> > 
> > 50cm is the inside diameter.  If I don't pay for the Acrylic to be
> > shrunk and annealed when I buy it I will assume it hasn't been and
> > will either hire somebody else to do it or do it myself.
> > 
> > Dive depth.  10meters is a very respectable dive depth for a house
> > boat.  30meters will no be it's operational depth upon arrival, only
> > it's tested depth.  Hard to give it an operational depth on arrival
> > since many things will change as it gets fitted out - but 30 meters
> > is enough to test most of the systems.  I will think about more depth
> > testing before the hand over, although depth testing after the vessel
> > has been fitted out will still have to happen.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> >  Ian.
> > (I hope I didn't miss any of your questions.)
> 




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