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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
Thanks Dan and Jim. The viewport retaining ring inside cutouts were
nicely sized to put inside the viewports, and I used the feeler gauge
method. Happily, I was not able to measure any deflection at all, the
viewport seats are still true after welding. A few years ago I'd put in
flat SS seats for bulkheads carrying electrical penetrators, and was
surprised at how much one of them had been bent by the welding. These
viewport seats were seriously over-built to avoid that problem, but it's
really nice to verify that it worked.
cheers,
Alec
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Dan. H.
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 6:13 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
Alex,
All you need to check flatness of the viewport seats is something flat
that's the diameter of the lens and a set of feeler gauges. The first
thing that comes to mind for a flat reference is a disk of steel or
aluminum faced flat on a lathe. If not that maybe even a piece of plate
glass cut and nipped to fit into the housing.
With the flat piece in the housing you can try to fit the feeler gauge
shims in behind it from the inside. If you can't fit any shims in, it's
flat. If you find you have a wobble you can stack up shims to see how
much out of flat it is.
Your out of roundness is most likely an oval with one wide spot and one
narrow spot. It's probably going to be wide from top to bottom and
narrow from side to side because of the geometry of the intersection of
the two parts. If you don't have an inside micrometer set you can
measure it with a piece of rod, say about a 1/4 inch diameter, cut to
just fit the diameter of the hole in the narrowest part and then use it
and a feeler gauge to measure how loose it fits when inserted in the
same hole but in the widest part.
Either that or wander up north on Rt 81 and I'll loan you the gauges.
If you have to, a larger shop could put the whole conning tower on a
boring mill and true it up for you but hold on to your wallet.
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Smyth, Alec" <Alec.Smyth@compuware.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 1:17 PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
Hi Dan,
I noted your comment about the slight distortion of the viewport seats
after welding. I've made mine rather massive in an effort to avoid that,
but d'you have a tip regarding how I can check whether it worked? I'd
love to get a dial indicator on them, but don't see an obvious way to do
that since they're welded into the coning tower. I'd really like to
check whether they're still flat before the tower goes on the sub, since
it should be possible (though admittedly hard), to refinish them by
turning the whole coning tower on a lathe.
Thanks,
Alec
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From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Dan. H.
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 8:31 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
James,
Also be aware that acrylic thickness isn't constant even when cut from
the same sheet. It may be wise to have your acrylic parts in hand
before machining your rings.
The only way to get a truly good fit between the lenses and housing
rings is to do a final machining after the rings are welded into the
hull, but most of us don't have that option. Anything else is just
doing the bet you can do with what happens after welding and the
tolerance of the acrylic you get.
Hey! Nice web site!
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Frankland" <james@guernseysubmarine.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 6:02 AM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Viewport Question.
Hello All.
Quick question regarding viewports tolerance.
Ive started machining and have done 2 at the moment. Ive machined the
depth of the bore to be exactly 1.25 inches as per the plans, and the
inside diameter i have machined to 8 inches plus a clearance of 0.5 mm
to allow the lense to drop in. (sorry, the plans are imperial but we're
metric here, so its a bit of both).
Im not making the acrylic lenses myself, i will buy them (probably from
psubs store). Assuming they come in exactly at 8 inches OD, as things
are they should slot in nice and tight.
But Dan H mentioned to me that he got some slight distortion on the
ports after welding.
So the question is, do you think 0.5 mm clearance is enough? Obviously
i cannot alter the ports once they are welded in, and don't want to have
to start machining the lenses, they must fit.
You can have a look here as usual. Some of the text titles are wrong.
I'll
change them later.
http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/index_files/Page7497.htm
Any thoughts?
Thanks
James
----- Original Message -----
From: Jay K. Jeffries [mailto:bottomgun@mindspring.com]
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 20:16:42 -0500
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Digital Multi-Frequency Scanning Sonar
Here is what looks like a great scanning sonar for a PSUB. If it is
priced like some of their other products, it should be a great deal.
http://www.imagenex.com/html/881l_imaging.html
R/Jay
Respectfully,
Jay K. Jeffries
Andros Is., Bahamas
A skimmer afloat is but a submarine, so poorly built it will not plunge.
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