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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Copper Slag Blasting Media Data



Good Morning James F,

The Rattleguard brand is a do-it yourself slow cure product that you can easily and cheaply spray yourself. Rhino fast cure type products require a special tape to be applied to the edges of the liner where you want the automotive paint to start to show, that have a piano wire in them to cut the liner. I just ordered there light grey, large truck bed kit with 2.5 gallons in it. The color black, will run you run you about $50 a gallon plus shipping, and for colors, your looking at about $57 a gallon plus shipping. Shipping cost for the 2.5 gallon kits is $30.

http://www.rattleguard.com/

http://stores.ebay.com/Rattleguard-and-Triple-M-Auto-Paint

You can spray it with the cheap guns you can get with one of there other kits they have in there ebay store, or for larger applications you can use a sheetrock texture hopper gun with the smallest tip you have. You'll need a larger 5 HP motor on you compressor to spray this type of product, or do as I do and buy or make up a pneumatic hose splitter and connect two or more smaller compressors into one hose. You might want to install check valves on each of the compressors to protect the regulator valve and gage. If you only have one small compressor, you can easily buy, rent, or borrow one from a neighbor. This is also a great way to get enough CFM for sandblasting.

I will be receiving my order of Rattleguard shortly, so I can spray five specialty computer cabinets I'm building out of mostly 3/4" plywood for a dental office. I'll let you guys know how that goes and take some pics. I also have a van, and plan to spray this sort of material on the entire inside and outside, except the engine compartment and close to the exhaust underneath. I'm doing this for allot of reasons, some of which is sound and heat insulation properties. This product will make your stereo sound great. I use my 15 passenger one ton Ford van for acquiring wood and rocks for my log furniture business, way out in the back woods, and so if I don't have to worry about scratching my van, or have to listen to the brush scratching my van, I like it. Also I put some pretty narly dirty stuff in the back and need to be able to pressure wash the whole inside of the back of my van out. I just drive the front wheels up on ramps, and start from the front. I did this allot when I used the van for my commercial exotic bird business. Bird seed gets every where. I'm still finding it.

Another do-it-yourself brand I've personally seen sprayed on as undercoating on a mid 1950's fiberglass Corvette was Raptor Liner. It comes in colors as well. The auto body guy that was spraying it, acquired the product from a auto body paint supplier as I recall for about $125 a gallon.

http://www.toolsusa.com/BedLiner/index.htm

http://item.express.ebay.com/RAPTOR-Tintable-Spray-In-Truck-Bed-Liner-2K-Urethane_W0QQitemZ190115958868QQihZ009QQfromsoiZ1QQcmdZExpressItem

Regards,

Brent Hartwig

 


From:  "James Frankland" <james@guernseysubmarine.com>
To:  <brenthartwig@hotmail.com>
Subject:  RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Copper Slag Blasting Media Data
Date:  Thu, 26 Jul 2007 09:45:58 +0100
>Hi Brent.
>
>Just reading your article on rubber type coatings.
>
>Do you know if there are any products that you can get similar to that but which you can just spray on yourself without having to go to a specialist shop?
>
>Its not for a sub, I was just thinking about using something like that for my van.  I go windsurfing, and the wet stuff in the van ends up rusting the floor, no matter how carefull i am in trying to clean up etc.
>
>Something like the turboliner you mentioned would be great.  But im not spending loads of money on getting it done proper, just something easy?
>
>What do you think?
>
>Thanks
>James
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Brent Hartwig [mailto:brenthartwig@hotmail.com]
>To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
>Sent: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 21:18:41 -0700
>Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Copper Slag Blasting Media Data
>
>
>
>
>Greatings PSUBers,
>
>I just got back from visiting a local boat dock fabrication company. They use the copper slag blasting media called Kleen Blast that I mentioned earlier, to sandblast all there steel weldments.
>
>I got to feel the bare blasted steel that was blasted with the copper slag and it had allot rougher texture then steel blasted with 20/30 silica sand. It is also allot better for your health. This rougher texture makes primer, paint, and any other type of coating you would wish to use adhere to the steel better then steel blasted with silica sand.
>
>http://www.frappr.com/?a=viewphoto&amp;id=2628470&amp;pid=7149211
>
>After blasting the weldments, they are sprayed with a black Rhino Liner type material called Turbo Liner without any need for primer. Now remember these steel weldments are for docks that live just above the water outside, year round. Turbo Liner does come in a number of different colors as well. But it has to be sprayed by a very special machine that mixes the two parts at the gun, and has a heated hose. This material is dry to the touch in about ten seconds, just like the Rhino Liner brand.
>
>http://www.turboliner.com/
>
>They can spray it almost glass smooth, but they stand back and just mist the last coat of Turbo Liner to get the lite texture there customers want. You will see what I mean in my pictures on Frappr.
>
>http://www.frappr.com/?a=viewphoto&amp;id=2628470&amp;pid=7149098
>
>How well this sort of treatment on a weldment holds up underwater in fresh or saltwater without a primer, I'm going to find out.  The guys at Rattleguard did a test on a large piece of wood, and coated it about 3/16" thick with there product and then put it in water for a couple of months. No water got through except in one corner where the coating was really thin. Of course this wood was not sent down deep but it can give you an idea. I'm still planning to use a high quality two part epoxy primer before I apply any other coatings, just to make sure. It will add some expense and time to any given project, but I would hate to try to remove any of these Rhino type coatings if I had rust starting to work under them.
>
>I'm not sure yet how electrolyses will affect the steel when coved with a coating like this. I would like to know so I don't have to use zinc blocks if they are not needed. I've heard of allot of aluminum and steel boats being bottom coated with the Rhino liner and Rattleguard brands, but haven't been able to get a straight answer about corrosion issues, if any.
>
>
>Best Regards,
>
>Brent Hartwig
>
>
>
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