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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]

Yep, the float is pretty non-critical. I've already programmed the Mc to blow the tanks if it detects failure (as in all of a sudden the tank level hits zero within a specified period of time) which worked fine when I tested it manually. I figure if the float fails then it will slide to the bottom of the tube with the reed switches in it quickly. Thus setting off the one of several events that trigger the emergency recovery program. 

So far my emergency recovery program works on the following.

Loss of power - ERP fires
Preasure Can internal preasure reaches 2atm ERP fires
Control signle loss for greater than 120 seconds (two minutes) ERP Fires
Ballast failure detected (uncontrolled flooding or unexplaind quick drop) Erp Fires 
Loss of "altitude" or going down depth too fast ERP Fires.
Compressed Gas at less than +50psi than depth., the compressed gas tank is a sherwood 30cf 3000psi pony tank. so... this should only happen if A. I'm playing with my ballast too much or B. Failure of an O-ring or something 

The ERP has two protocols, the Main and the Backup.
The main is simple and can be run off the battery backup it essentially opens all the intake valves to the ballast tanks and then opens the valve on the compressed gas tank, thus offering a continuos "blow"
The backup protocol is activated at the same time, only the backup essentially is a timed emergency backup that doesn't require a continual source of power. Once the backup is activated a brief burst of power is sent to an electronic solenoid that removes the "firing pin" from the backup. which then winds down for 60 seconds (believe it or not I canabalized an egg timer for the countdown mechanism :) ). Once the wind down completes it'll hit a trigger inside that will release a spring loaded hollow pin that drops into a Co2 cylinder that inflates a packed ripstop bag.(much like a lift bag that a scuba diver might use... only a bit smaller and packed by me like one would pack a parachute into it's holder) This way if the ROV gets turned upside down and the vent holes on the main ballast do more harm then good by letting water in instead of letting it out, I can be pretty sure that I can recover my personal wallet draining device
At the moment I'm working on archimedes, Bugeye was fun to build but once I got it in the water it felt like little more than a drop cam... and the manueverability kind of sucked in current. So I moved on to archimedes. 


George Slaterpryce
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay K. Jeffries" <bottomgun@mindspring.com> 
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]
Different issue here in the type of joint you will be making and the conditions it is being used at when compared with the Thresher. Silver brazed joints were supposedly one of several issues that contributed to the loss of the Thresher. You would be making an external joint not hidden pipe joint with flowed silver, the system will not be used at the depth the Thresher could operate at, the joint is small and thus can take more pressure, and the float is a non-critical system (I supppose otherwise you would want a fail-proof item). 
Respectfully,
Jay K. Jeffries
Andros Is., Bahamas

-----Original Message-----

From: George Slaterpryce <gslaterp@hotmail.com>
Sent: Apr 5, 2006 8:49 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]

Didn't the Thresher go down because of a blown silver brazed joint that
flooded her?
I'm gonna have to see if there is a welding class or something in town, I've 
never done silver brazing, just self taught arc welding.

George Slaterpryce
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay K. Jeffries" <bottomgun@mindspring.com> 
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]



You might want to silver-braise these joints.  Much finer connection
results.
Jay K. Jeffries
Andros Is., Bahamas



-----Original Message-----

From: George Slaterpryce <gslaterp@hotmail.com>
Sent: Apr 5, 2006 8:15 AM
To: PSUBS Mailing List <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST]

I was attempting to machine the pieces for a metal "bobber" for my new
soft
ballast tank's water level indicator (Foam just gives at depth, so that's 
no
good). The piece is essentially one piece 1cm in diameter 1mm thick walls 
and 1cm in length and another 5mm 1mm thick wall and 1cm in length tube
with
two 1cm diameter 1mm thick "washer" end caps with a center bore hole of
5mm.

I can get the pieces machine out great, that's the easy part. I'm trying
to
weld them all together however and I end up with some really shitty
looking
welds. I've never attempted to weld something so "delicate" before. What
I'm
trying to make here is a preasure proof bobber and the end product should 
be
something like a hollow bearing.

All my welding is done via stick arc welding.

Any suggestions?



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