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Hi Andy.
Thanks for explaining that. Super cool! I like it.
I might make a few for my wetsub's dash. I will be sure to make and seal them
seperately from each other so they will be easier
to replace if necessary but with 100000 hours of estimated life, I doubt if the
sub
would outlast the bulb! Thanks again.
Bill.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 10:05
AM
Subject: Re: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior
low level lighting
Yes I sealed everything totally. you should not need any
cooling on standard LED?s there are a few that do need cooling they are called
Star LED?s and XLamp they run at between 1 and 5 watt's and are
more prone to failure.
For internal sub lighting I would run super bright
LED?s typically they run draw around .02 amps each. And come in red, white,
blue, green, purple, uv and any color you want about 250 of these will out put
the same brightness as a 100W light in a standard house lamp.
If you do
run 250 super bright led at 20mA at 6 volts it will draw 30 watts and about 5
amps so a 100AH 6 volt battery will run for 20 hours
The only down
side of sealing LED?s in plastic is replacement you will have to replace the
whole assembly when they burn out in about 100000 hours of continuous use.:)
Check out www.superbrightleds.com
Andy
PS:
the white led's are kinda on the blue side.
From: "Akins" <lakins1@tampabay.rr.com>
Date:
2005/10/21 Fri PM 05:16:42 CDT
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Subject:
Re: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level lighting
Hi
Andy.
Thanks for that info. But did you completely encase the LED
"bulb" section inside the acrylic?
What I am trying to figure out
is...did you leave the bulb section just peeking outside of the acrylic so it
would be
cooled by the water while the rest of the LED wiring was
encased in acrylic, or did you TOTALLY encase
the whole thing, "bulb"
and all submerged under the acrylic? I was wondering how you did it and if you
had thought
about just leaving the very end of the sealed "bulb" of the
LED just peeking out of the acrylic so it would be in contact
with the
water and be cooled while the rest of the LED wiring was encased inside the
acrylic and protected from the water.
I am envisioning a mold with the
LED held in the mold by some means whereby the very tip of the LED bulb would
just
barely extend outside of the level of the poured acrylic and since
the "bulb" section of the acrylic is already sealed it would
be
protected from the water while still being cooled by it.
Bill.
----- Original Message -----
From:
drewacard@charter.net
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level lighting
I just made a
mold placed the led and resistor wire connector filled it in with
acrylic resin next day pulled out of the mold cleaned it up. And a way
it went.
I am unsure what kind acrylic it was other then
clear. I thing he got it from the UW?s biology department.
As for temp I believe normal usable range is -20 to 150 degrees F for most
leds
I wanted to try it with 7 segment(number displays)
but i haven?t had the time but cant see why that would not work
either.
Andy
From: "Akins" <lakins1@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: 2005/10/21 Fri AM 03:31:37 CDT
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Subject: Re: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level
lighting
Hi Andy.
Thanks for the info on your
potted LED's. Do your led's require mineral oil to fill in some kind of voids
and for cooling?
Or did you just pot them right into the acrylic
covering both the two connection wires going into the led's and did you
pot
the led bulb part itself so it was completely encased in the
acrylic?
Bill.
----- Original
Message -----
From: drewacard@charter.net
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 2:04
PM
Subject: Re: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level
lighting
I have potted led in 2 part acrylic for
a friends salt water wave tank.
by the way led's are a
current driven device you can run them off line voltage with the correct
resistor.
Andy
From:
"Brian Cox" <ojaivalleybeefarm@dslextreme.com>
Date: 2005/10/20 Thu AM 08:56:38 CDT
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level
lighting
Bill,
I have a friend who is making exterior LED's for
underwater
illumination using mineral oil to fill the
voids and also as a coolent
to cool the LED's that
produce too much heat ( when the LED's are pushed
with
too much voltage they heat up).
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From:
Akins
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 03:00
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level
lighting
I wonder if LED's could be
rigged for submergence on the dash of my
wetsub? I like
John's idea for insuring seeing his switches in total
darkness.
In the murky water that would
be a definate benifit for me in the
wetsub. Being able
to see the led light next to my switches would aid in
making sure
I used the correct ones when
in extremely low viz situations. Of
course in that viz
case, it would be time to terminate the dive due to
low
viz, but DURING
the dive before it was
terminated for low viz, it could be a real
help.
Any ideas?
Bill.
----- Original
Message -----
From: Rick and
Marcia
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 11:59
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]
Interior low level
lighting
Interesting
thread. I think I'll be sure to bring my forehead
mounted trilight: It has red LED's for preserving night vision.
A
little off the cuff but this thread got me
thinking.
Rick
Lucertini
Vancouver
----- Original
Message -----
Subject: Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level
lighting
>
Ray,
>
> I am planning on using
LED lighting throughout my sub's interior.
You can
purchase ones that are very powerful but only draw very
little
current. And because LED's are tough as nails
there is little or no
chance of them getting damaged or
burning out from vibration, getting
wet or
such.
>
> There are super bright
LED's now that produce 16K candle power,
run on only 3.4
V and draw about 200 mA a piece. I've already built a
separate little regulated power supply to run them for my
project.
>
> Also, I am planning to
have all of my switches and gauges LED lit
to insure
that I can see them in total
darkness.
>
>
John
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Ray
Keefer <psubs2001@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Oct 19, 2005 1:33 PM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] U505 gets historically
correct
paint.
>
> Hi
Bill,
>
> The bit about
"phosphorescent coat" got me
thinking.
>
> Critical knobs and
switches in our PSUB'S could
> benifit from such a coating. I found out during
my
> submersible pilot
training it can get unexpectedly
> dark. Surprising how dark it gets driving into
muck
> stirred off the
bottom. Even at only 15 feet
down!
>
>
Regards,
>
Ray
>
>
>
>
>
>
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