[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] 12 Volt Solenoids



Hi Dan.
 
Thanks for responding. I need the help. Yes, you are right, I was thinking of using the car solenoids. Are there better ones to use than those? I have the basic idea of what I want to do and somewhat how to do it, but
 
I do not know exactly what amps, volts, etc to use. I'm not sure I could draw up a clear picture of what I want to do Dan, I'm not really sure how to do what I want to do to be able to draw a picture of it Lol!  
 
But generally speaking I was thinking of this......
 
I would like to find out if there are better batteries to use than standard lead acid deep cycle marine batteries that are not cost prohibitive. I was thinking of using four small 12 volt sea scooter batteries and connect them in
 
SEPERATE pairs in series so each pair put out 24 volts. One pair being for backup. But friends have told me my 74lbs thrust minnkota would eat up the electricity a lot faster than my sea doo sea scooter does,
 
and they said those small size batteries would not last very long at all driving the big minnkota. That makes sense to me, but I just don't know and am not sure what kind of batteries to get for sure.
 
From past threads at psubs, I have heard members say you cannot beat a regular deep cycle marine battery for cost compared to some of the newer gel types. Are deep cycle marine batteries that are 24 volts
 
and will fit into my 12 inch diameter pvc battery pod even made or will I have to go with the 12 volt ones? I'm not really up on types of batteries out there..
 
First I need to find out if I can purchase 24 volt deep cycle marine batteries that would fit in my 12 in diameter pod. If I can, I will use two. If not, I will use four 12 volt batteries and
 
connect two SEPERATE pairs of them together in series. That way I will have two 12 volt batteries making 24 volts to use to begin the dive with, and if they run dry, I will have another
 
pair just like the first, to come back on. I would like to have a variable speed control switch if possible, but if a waterproof one is not available or I can't rig a speciality tool, explosion proof (sparkless)
 
variable speed drill switch, to be waterproof, then I will just use toggle switches that have a rubber boot on the front and encase the back terminals in a silicon blob for waterproofing. A variable speed
 
trigger switch with a reverse setting would be the ultimate ticket. A trigger switch like that would also act as a "dead mans" switch, so the switch would not be able to run the motor without someone holding it down, just like
 
my sea doo scooter does. Otherwise, I have to use the toggle switches and that means one position for batteries off, another position for 12 volts at half speed, another position
 
for 24 volts at full speed and another position for reverse. Not the optimum choice and just two speeds. The batteries will be enclosed in my 12 inch pvc pipe with removable end cap and "O" ring mounted on the keel.
 
The solenoid could be in another smaller pvc pipe seperate from the batteries to make sure no sparks from the solenoid could possibly ignite any hydrogen from the batteries. Are there sparkless solenoids available that would
 
enable me to just put the solenoid into the 12 inch pvc battery pod? I don't know if I need seperate solenoids for each function of the switches or not. I am not very versed in electrical hookups but if I had someone explain exactly
 
what to do, I could do that. I also would encase all wire ends in epoxy to preclude any hydrogen from seeping thru the battery wires to the solenoid compartment.
 
That's pretty much my rough plan Dan. Sorry for the encyclopedia. There was no quick way to tell it. I haven't even touched on whether I should oil fill or air compensate my motor, also whether I should use BCD bladders
 
in the bow and stern for buoyancy and trim or if I should just centrally locate 4 or 6 inch pvc pipes along the upper side of the sub for buoyancy or even if I should just make the sub always very slightly buoyant and just use my
 
personal BCD to change attitude when submerged.  It is complicated by the fact that it is a TWO person cockpit wetsub but sometimes I may be diving it alone which would change the center of gravity.
 
But the buoyancy and motor pressure equalization questions I will leave for now until I get the batteries and wiring figured out first. Thanks again for your kind offer of help.
 
What do you advise?
 
Bill.
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan H.
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] 12 Volt Solenoids

Bill,
 
The main difference in a 12 volt solenoid and a 24 volt solenoid is the voltage it takes to operate the coil.  The coil has to be operated with the proper voltage.  The contacts of the relay are more current sensitive then voltage sensitive.  As long as your relay current rating is as high or higher then the current (amps) draw of your motor, use it.  I assume your talking about the can type solenoids like the auto industry uses for car starters.  Correct? 
 
If you send me a pic of what you planning to do, I may be able to help you come up with some wiring ideas.
 
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
From: Akins
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] U505 gets historically correct paint.

Hi Ray.
 
I know what you mean. As a diver in Florida in our mucky gulf, I've gotten used to the "Viz" as we call visibility,
 
being less than adequate. There are times I have been unable to see beyond several feet because of the silty muck.
 
I agree with you that the phosphorescent paint could help inside our subs. I also like John Gaertner's point about the LED's
 
and the low voltage light they give. The higher end dive lights are all going to led's now. I think the best thing would be to have
 
both the phosphorescent paint and the LED's. When it is time to paint my wetsub, I might opt for phosphorescent yellow paint
 
so it could be seen better underwater. Speaking of my wetsub, I am still hoping to get advice on how to hook up my dash switches
 
to the solenoid and then to the batteries. Not sure if I can use a 12 volt solenoid for the 24 volt motor or not. Still need help in figuring
 
out how to hook it all up now that I've mounted the motor. Anyone have advice?
 
Bill.
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Keefer
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] U505 gets historically correct paint.

Hi Bill,

The bit about "phosphorescent coat" got me thinking.

Critical knobs and switches in our PSUB'S could
benifit from such a coating. I found out during my
submersible pilot training it can get unexpectedly
dark. Surprising how dark it gets driving into muck
stirred off the bottom. Even at only 15 feet down!

Regards,
Ray

--- Akins <lakins1@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

> U505 gets the historically correct paint inside and
> out. Wooden decking gets correct preservative also.
> Bill.
>
>
http://www.nace.org/nace/content/library/articles/features/uboat.asp





__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com



************************************************************************
************************************************************************
************************************************************************
The personal submersibles mailing list complies with the US Federal
CAN-SPAM Act of 2003.  Your email address appears in our database
because either you, or someone you know, requested you receive messages
from our organization.

If you want to be removed from this mailing list simply click on the
link below or send a blank email message to:
removeme-personal_submersibles@psubs.org

Removal of your email address from this mailing list occurs by an
automated process and should be complete within five minutes of
our server receiving your request.

PSUBS.ORG
PO Box 311
Weare, NH  03281
603-529-1100
************************************************************************
************************************************************************
************************************************************************