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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] trip report



Alec,
            I have a question for you.  During all of your manuvers out to the dive locations how were the seas?  Did Snoopy rock back and forth very much?  Do you think that someone who is prone to sea sickness would have had any problems out there?
 
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: Alec Smyth
To: PSUBS
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 9:09 AM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] trip report

Hi all,

 

I just got back from a trip to the Florida Keys with Snoopy (K-250) and thought I?d share how it went, since it was certainly instructive.

 

We trailered just over a thousand miles each way with a Land Rover, and that part was smooth as can be. We pegged the cruise control at 80 mph and there were no incidents to report whatsoever. The trailer also worked beautifully for launch and retrieval. Since this has been reported as a frequent issue, I?ll share some of the details that made it go well. The trailer has an extensible tongue. That is, there are 3 square tubes inside each other, so that you can pull out 2 of the sections for a telescoping effect. Dale Heinzig originally built the trailer that way, but I added an additional pull-out section taking the total axle-to-hitch distance to 25 feet. This works out just right, and so far on every ramp I?ve used the sub floats off just before the Land Rover?s rear wheels touch the water. The trailer has an aluminum diamond plate deck, and two UHMW (plastic) rectangular bars bolted to that deck. The bars are 2? high, 3? wide, and 40? long. They?re milled with inward-sloping top surfaces, so if the sub floats down on them it gets pushed into alignment on the center of the trailer deck. All you do to retrieve the boat is winch in the bow, and position it approximately over the bars.

 

Given the topography of gently sloping, shallow bottoms in Florida, I knew I was in for long tows, so one of the prep items was glassing in the bottom of the ballast tanks. For those of you who might have missed it, there was a thread here on how the K boat tanks burp during tows, requiring the pilot to periodically inject air. My glassed-in tanks now have openings on the center line, so as to minimize that burping effect.

 

The first dive was to be a simple checkout in shallow and protected waters, but even to get to 6 feet of depth required a tow of 2 miles. Being the first tow, I was not sure how well the glassed in tanks would work out, so I went for the ride inside the sub. It got HOT. I didn?t have a thermometer, but the folks on the boat said I looked like a wax figure when the heating has been turned up way too high. The good news is that the glassed-in tanks worked perfectly, and there was no need to inject air, therefore freeing the pilot from having to sit through tows on the inside. We were towing with a 22 foot Angler that had a 250 HP outboard. However, it took nearly an hour and a half to cover 2 miles, in flat calm conditions with no current. Even at that slow speed, I had to keep the lid closed the whole time because the bow wave came clean over it. Kittredge recommends opening the hatch every hour and a half to refresh the cabin air. After that amount of time, my O2 content had only dropped from 21% to 18%, and I didn?t feel any staleness in the air whatsoever. However it?s also true I seem to use about half the air most other people do, on SCUBA at any rate.

 

An extraordinary thing that happened on that tow was that the inside of the sub rusted before my eyes, within the first half hour. Prior to the trip I?d sandblasted and painted. The outside got epoxy paint, but the inside just got a primer and water based paint. The water based thing is because the sale of oil based paints has been restricted where I live, but I?m afraid this substitute just doesn?t cut it? I?ll be mail-ordering some good stuff and doing the inside job all over again. On the outside, the paint held up well in general, but with lots of local rust spots. I?m hoping now these have shown up it?s a matter of spot-fixing and it should stay a bit more resistant once they are dealt with. Also anywhere the sub touches anything, no matter how lightly, it will rust. It would be good to redo the prop guards in stainless, because they?re the first thing to have contact with any pier or boat.

 

Something that I should have thought of was a ballast issue. On local Chesapeake dives (brackish water), I?d found myself 60 lbs light. So I built some nice keel covers out of quarter inch plate, which added 60 lbs in addition to improving the aesthetics. Well, in fully salt water I was short an additional 80 lbs! We ended up dismantling a nephew?s exercise machine and carrying the weights in the sub, but in the future I?m going to have to build in some removable weights for salt water diving. In addition, the sub is very sensitive to the pilot?s weight, and I found I had to make adjustments for that as well when letting a friend take a turn.

 

With the pilot out of the boat, Snoopy could be towed faster. However, the tow boat had serious control issues, like pointing the bow left but going right instead. Things that helped were jamming the rudder pedals and lashing the thrusters. If a thruster goes vertical, you get more drag on that side. We also found it helped to attach the tow rope to the mechanical claw rather than the eye on the bow. The sub has a tendency to go under at speed, so attaching to a low point helps to counteract that. Above all, the thing to do was to use an extremely short tow rope. The best result was with a triangle from both sides of the boat transom to the sub, with the sub being not more than 2 feet behind the outboard. With these changes, we gradually worked our way up to a maximum tow speed of 3.5 mph.

 

There was one issue that could be really serious, but that we were spared on account of good weather. Many power boats have extremely low transoms, because there?s an assumption they will be moving forward at high speed. If we had been towing at one or two knots, and large waves had been coming in from astern, the Angler could have been in very serious trouble. And it?s probably a more seaworthy hull than many.

 

Another major issue is that if you leave the pilot out of the boat for the tow, he still has to get inside on the open ocean. When a K-250 is surfaced, but has a pilot and sufficient weight to make it under, the freeboard is VERY small. Basically any chop comes perilously close to swamping the boat, and there were many occasions when I slammed the lid shut because of an approaching wave. For example, you need to be very much on the lookout for waves from other boats, which often make close passes out of curiosity. Although we were never actually swamped, at the end of each outing there was an inch or so of water in the boat just from splashing, condensation, etc. Also, I had to swim across to the sub on numerous occasions and get in soaking wet. One thing I was very happy about is that prior to the trip, I redid all the electricals using waterproof enclosures and waterproof switches. I rerouted cables that used to run under the floor, where I have no doubt the salt water would have shorted them out. Snoopy has rugged but extremely elementary electricals, and I could not have done any of this with sophisticated electronics on board. All I had in the way of electronics was a medical O2 meter and Divelink communications gear. The O2 meter lasted less than a day and has not worked since. The Divelink was OK because it is designed to be around water, so the circuits are potted in epoxy. No doubt the safe way to operate would be to put the pilot inside upon launch, and keep the hatch closed for the duration, so that condensation would be the only thing to deal with. Unfortunately, in a Florida summer that is simply not feasible on account of the temperatures in the cabin.

 

On one occasion the tow boat dropped me off 50 yards from the ramp, and I got in the sub to motor in under my own power. To my surprise, one of the props had fallen off. Several times I had to clear floating clumps of seaweed from the props. My theory is that one of these clumps prevented the prop from turning when I hit reverse. That would have unscrewed the nut. In future, those nuts are going to be installed in pairs! I am not too sure about my theory, however, since I didn?t actually see the moment the prop came off. It could also just have happened from alternating forward and reverse many times.

 

So to summarize, towing was the bane of our existence. We found ourselves stuck at sea fighting currents until nearly midnight, in canals that weren?t wide enough to pass another boat, unable to stay within channels or between bridge pylons, etc. The inability to steer led to damage to the mechanical claw, the rudder, and the tow boat?s prop due to groundings.  In fact the towing issue was so bad we got to do precious little diving, and never in the ?good? spots we were shooting for, and we spent our days battling to get out to sea or back. The greatest depth achieved was a miserable 10 feet! Snoopy will not be towed again, I am going to undo my glassed-in ballast tanks and plan future trips to locales that don?t require tows, even if the visibility is not as good as the keys. The sub actually worked perfectly each time she got a chance to dive, but those chances were exceedingly rare.  The diving was not great but the trip was well worth while as a learning experience. I hope this is useful to the rest of you too!

 

 

Cheers,

 

Alec