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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] water proof switches
Hi Ray,
The switches can be kept dry with simple rubber boot. I would use a
standard toggle switch (the round metal type) and get a rubber boot
that matches it's threads. This is how the Halcyon and Salvo DIR dive
lights do it. I think halcyon claims 500 feet with this design (which
is just a standard toggle switch with rubber boot). A word of caution
on toggle switch threads, different manufacturers use different thread
pitches so the rubber boot (with integral nut) must be of the correct
thread for your switch). I've never seen rubber boots for the micro
toggle switches (if find some let me know). I used to go to a place in
Berkeley, Ca called Al Lasher's electronics, they have a pretty decent
selection of toggle switches and have the rubber boots. The boot
should be less than $5 each.
An alternate approach would be to order the switch boots from Salvo. I
think they want $8 a piece for them but it's easy and if you don't need
too many or if you want one to touch and play with here's the link.
The toggle switches used on dive lights are standard 1/2" hole round
metal SPST switches, but you can certainly get more complex ones (I
personally like the Center Off up/down momentary for embedded user
interfaces). Salvo ships same or next day out of Florida and are quite
responsive.
An important thing to note is that the switch boot has to seal against
the housing so it needs to be a smooth, flat surface where the switch
penetrates.
As far as the cases and keeping parts dry there are quite a few options
if you don't need them to withstand much pressure. Many electrical
supply stores have quite a few of these and there's also the small
pelican case option (with the really small ones having a clear front).
I prefer buying a watertight box and putting holes into it over trying
to make your own (even if you have a machine shop to do it in). No
matter how you do it, at very least vacumme test your box to make sure
it's air/water tight.
Salvo also sells the watertight cord-locks they use for the light cord
(just a watertight gland with an O-ring that compresses on the outside
of the cord. You can also buy watertight glands at most electrical
supply houses. If using gland fitting remember that if one case foods
the water may be able to move to the other ones through the cord
(though I wouldn't count on this for equalization air). Most of the
underwater cables I've seen are standard SO or SOW cable (the black
rubber cord they sell at home depot is SOW IIRC).
I would probably plumb all your boxes with clear Vinyl tubing and the
pull the wires through it (I've seen whips done that way in a pinch or
when fiber-optics were involved). You basically make one large
watertight container that consists of however many enclosures you need.
Just remember that one flooding may flood the others. This also
eliminates the need for compensation plumbing to each box.
Teflon insulated wire is more expensive and harder to get but much
nicer to work with (it doesn't melt when soldering) and it doesn't
off-gas if something goes wrong.
links:
http://salvodiving.com/spare_parts
http://salvodiving.com/inc/pdetail?v=1&pid=279
mike
On Jun 9, 2005, at 10:06 AM, Ray Keefer wrote:
Ok,
Another basic parts question. I am designing a
semi-dry ambient. How do I keep electrical switches
dry? For that matter how do I keep the electrics dry?
I can envision running the electrics into sealed
compensated boxes to keep salt water away from bus
bars, barrier strips and fuses.
How about switches? I can mount them on the front
sides of the sealed boxes to keep the terminals away
from water. How do I keep water from invading through
the front of switches? Can I use gas proof switches?
Are they sealed? Or just designed not to spark?
So far the only real thought I had was to mount push
button switches on a plate then cover with a rubber
membrane. To active a push button, press on the
membrane over the switch and press it through the
rubber.
Displays are easy. I can mount them inside sealed
boxes behind plexiglass.
Regards,
Ray
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603-529-1100
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