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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Exaust considerations?



Hi Carsten,

I was wondering where does your exaust come out, and what precausions
have taken to prevent water entering via the exaust route?

Thanks,
  Ian.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 17:00:03 +0200
Carsten Standfuss <Merlinsub@t-online.de> wrote:

> At the moment not. 
> 
> But later there will be maybe a short bypass from the exhaust system to
> the stern ballst tank - its just a pipe of 3 feet and two vales. 
> 
> best regards Carsten
> 
> Brian Cox schrieb:
> > 
> > Carsten,
> >                 Do you divert the exhaust from the diesel engines into your ballast tanks when the boat is just high enough in the water so the engines can get outside air?  Then that brings the boat up to maximum buoyancy?
> > 
> > Brian
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Carsten Standfuss" <Merlinsub@t-online.de>
> > To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2005 1:52 PM
> > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Green board?
> > 
> > > Hi Ian..
> > >
> > > - I have a red/green board for all outside vales
> > >   for the soft and hard tanks.
> > >
> > > Its vissible at picture No.3 at :
> > >
> > > http://www.euronaut.org/Ausbau.html
> > >
> > > - and a diver chamber..
> > > - and a (some) scuttle vale..
> > > - and a (some) drop weights..
> > >
> > > The biggest "scuttle" vale I have is the diesel exhaust flap. Has a 5
> > > inch inside diameter - If I open the exhaust to bilge flap and this
> > > diesel exhaust flap underwater it will float the boat in a couple of
> > > minutes..
> > >
> > > I have no red/green lights on the hatches - but with only two outsides
> > > hatches and a crew of three proffesional engineers we should able to
> > > close them before diving..
> > >
> > > :-)) regards Carsten
> > >
> > >
> > > Ian Roxborough schrieb:
> > > >
> > > > Hi,
> > > >
> > > > I was wondering, is anybody considering using classic red/green check
> > > > lights board type thing to make sure all hatches and valves are closed
> > > > before diving?
> > > >
> > > > It seems that this could be simple to construct; some small magnets
> > > > and some reed switches hooked up a couple of transitors and LEDs (or a
> > > > PIC/microcontrol if you want to get fancy).  Attach the magnets to the
> > > > valve handle or edge of the hatch, and place the reed switchs in a
> > > > static position (i.e. not on the handle) next to the magenets when
> > > > the valve is in the closed position, so they will be activated in
> > > > when the handle is in the closed position.
> > > >
> > > > Of course this isn't full proof, the magnet might be near enough to
> > > > activate the reed switch when the hand is still slightly cracked open.
> > > > So this isn't a first line of defence, but a second check that you
> > > > didn't skip something on your check list by accident.  If you see
> > > > any reds lights after your check list has been checked, then you
> > > > need to investigate and go over your check list to make sure nothing
> > > > else was missed.
> > > >
> > > > The nice thing about reed switches is that they don't create false
> > > > positives in a damp environment.  Of course the connections to the
> > > > reed switch (and any other electronics) will have to potted correct
> > > > to prevent any short circuits when/if the humity rises.
> > > >
> > > > If I get some spare cycles I'll see if I can figure out the simplest
> > > > circuit for a red/green board using reed switches.  If nothing else,
> > > > it might look pretty. :-)
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > >   Ian.
> > > >
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